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Haircoloring Introduction to Color....

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LureMinerals View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LureMinerals Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2007 at 5:57pm
Re: my post above ... Actually i think it was called UNL 63
anyone know if that number sounds familiar for a hair color; (or what brand it could be), i even looked on google grr :)
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OhLaLa View Drop Down
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Hi Claude, or anybody.. please! I use Goldwell Top chic haircolor and i ran out of developer... i need to do my hair yesterdayWink..my question is..can i use any brand of developer? are they all basically the same? In my opinion, manufacturers will always try to tell you ,it is best to use THEIR products over others - marketing it is called I think...lol ..in truth any quality developer (same vol), will work in exactly the same way- it strips the hair to allow the colour to take.!! am i right to think so?
A quick response would be appreciated!!!
tysm! Michelleplease
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Claude View Drop Down
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Originally posted by OhLaLa OhLaLa wrote:

Hi Claude, or anybody.. please! I use Goldwell Top chic haircolor and i ran out of developer... i need to do my hair yesterdayWink..my question is..can i use any brand of developer? are they all basically the same? In my opinion, manufacturers will always try to tell you ,it is best to use THEIR products over others - marketing it is called I think...lol ..in truth any quality developer (same vol), will work in exactly the same way- it strips the hair to allow the colour to take.!! am i right to think so?
A quick response would be appreciated!!!
tysm! Michelleplease


Yes it's all the same....just double check the ammonium concentrate.

10 Vol - 3%
20 Vol - 6%
30 Vol - 9%
40 Vol - 12

Goldwell is a cream color so you should use a cream developer.
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OhLaLa View Drop Down
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tysm Claude for responding..youre awesome!!score010
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Hi KellyH
 
I like your hair Clapcolor phase 1,  how can i achieve your hair color, looks beautiful.
 
thanks!
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Claude, thank you so much for posting this wonderful information. Big hugs!
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Hi Claude
 
I usually bleach and tone my foils, but fancied trying a high-lift tint instead and have heard good things about Goldwell.  I'm a natural level 6, tend to pull warm when I lift the colour.  I was thinking of trying the 11A or 11P, but my question is whether I use 30vol or 40vol developer?  I vaguely remember being told that using 30vol for a longer amount of time helps to control warmth, is this correct?  Or do I need the 40vol to get the required lift (highlights are level 9/10 I guess) 
 
Thanks
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Confused     Thanks for such great information.  I have a problem that needs to be fixed.  I used hair remover then a permanent haircolour (hi-lift) tonight and it didn't turn out....very uneven colour because of the remover kit.  Can I color it again tomorrow to try to correct or minimize the uneveness &/or stipes.  Originally color blonde which went to black (for halloween...daughter wanted to be Betty Rubble)...used permanent color (I know, bad decision).  Tonight's process turned it into a deep brown/auburn, with sporatic stripes of lighter orange and black.  We have a BIG family reunion with pictures next week and I need to get it fixed.  What should I use? and would it be advisable to just go to semi-permanent next....will probably have it cut in the next day or two to get the ends cut off , but would like to fix color first.  Would appreciate any help possible...as SOON as possible.  Thanks!!!
Chelle69
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Claude View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Momof6 Momof6 wrote:

Confused     Thanks for such great information.  I have a problem that needs to be fixed.  I used hair remover then a permanent haircolour (hi-lift) tonight and it didn't turn out....very uneven colour because of the remover kit.  Can I color it again tomorrow to try to correct or minimize the uneveness &/or stipes.  Originally color blonde which went to black (for halloween...daughter wanted to be Betty Rubble)...used permanent color (I know, bad decision).  Tonight's process turned it into a deep brown/auburn, with sporatic stripes of lighter orange and black.  We have a BIG family reunion with pictures next week and I need to get it fixed.  What should I use? and would it be advisable to just go to semi-permanent next....will probably have it cut in the next day or two to get the ends cut off , but would like to fix color first.  Would appreciate any help possible...as SOON as possible.  Thanks!!!


Can you color it again? Well the problem is you folks don't understand that consistantly coloring your hair puts it at great risk for permanent chemical damage....and the end result is chop it short. Damage can not be repaired it can only be managed until you grow it out and cut it off. Now is your hair damaged....only a licensed cosmetologist can properly tell and since I can't get my hands into your hair I can't tell.

Some symptoms of damaged hair are the following. Can't get a comb thru your and it tangles very easily. The hair takes forever to dry even when blow drying it. The hair feels like cotton candy. Also if the hair has no shine and just looks dull. Breakage throughout the hair.

Seek professional advice from a master colorist. You are attempting things that require experience to be done safely. Yes you will pay BIG BUCK$ upwards of $250 however if your hair is worth it to you then that's how your justify it.

I've seen women totally destroy their hair over the years by attempting things themselves thinking hey I can do this or I'm not going to pay $80 for haircolor only to end up making things worse then paying 2 or 3 times as much to properly fix it.

Putting black or even semi permanent black onto someones hair is the worst thing you can do. From there the only thing you can do is color remove the oxidized pigment then from their to lighten it you need to bleach the hair up....from their depending on the health of the hair you may only be able to lighten it up 2 or 3 levels otherwise you run the risk or serious damage to the hair...then from their it needs to be tones to removed the brassiness which is the underlying pigment that gets exposed from lightening the hair. You really need to be an experienced colorist to do stuff like this. I can't stress this enuff.

Oh and when you goto a salon....goto a good one....avoid your chain salons...Fantastic Sam's Regis, Hair Cuttery, etc. They are typically newer stylists and lack the color experience to do a proper job. Seek a master colorist at a private salon....call them, tell them what you've done and ask about cost.....they can ball park it for ya. Don't be shocked if it's $200 - $300 though.
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Hi Claude,

I've been reading your column and truly enjoying it. Thought I'd ask your advice too if you don't mind. My natural haircolor is a dark ashy blond to light brown (between level 6 and 7). I colored is with a l'oreal casting colorspa in neutral dark blonde (a semi permanent color) and this made it a little lighter in color. (That is the only hair color process I've done to it. It is otherwise virgin hair.) Now the color has washed out and my hair looks kind of brassy and the color washes out my skin tone a little. I was considering dyeing my hair a nice light golden brown color to get it the same shade as my natural but not so mousy.

Anyways, I went to an Aveda salon yesterday to consult with a colorist. She is supposedly not very experienced coloring with Aveda because she is an intern but I was told she trained with the master colorist. She said I needed a richer warmer color for my light olive skin tone. She suggested putting a level 7 neutral shade over my hair and said this would help it look richer. I was confused by this. How would putting a level 7 make my hair color richer when I was already slightly darker than a level 7. I asked her about this and she said my hair needs pigment and that it was very fine and it's a good idea to add pigment to fine hair. She said if I wanted to go darker, we could use a level 6 and she wrote 6N on her paper. This confused me because the pictures we looked at together were about a level 5 light to medium brown with subtle warm tones. So, I have three questions:

1) What does she mean by "add pigment" to my hair?

2) Should I trust a stylist that just went through her Aveda color training but doesn't have a lot of experience using that training?

3) Would I be asking for trouble to just do it at home? After all, I have dyed my hair at home many times before (although I usually went lighter)and have read alot about hair color on the internet. I'm not exactly a hair color virgin and I've heard going a shade darker is supposed to be an easy process.

Also, I asked her about doing a semi-permanent and she said we wouldn't get as good of results so I was wondering why that is. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

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Claude View Drop Down
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Originally posted by PerfectBrunette PerfectBrunette wrote:

Hi Claude,

I've been reading your column and truly enjoying it. Thought I'd ask your advice too if you don't mind. My natural haircolor is a dark ashy blond to light brown (between level 6 and 7). I colored is with a l'oreal casting colorspa in neutral dark blonde (a semi permanent color) and this made it a little lighter in color. (That is the only hair color process I've done to it. It is otherwise virgin hair.) Now the color has washed out and my hair looks kind of brassy and the color washes out my skin tone a little. I was considering dyeing my hair a nice light golden brown color to get it the same shade as my natural but not so mousy.

Anyways, I went to an Aveda salon yesterday to consult with a colorist. She is supposedly not very experienced coloring with Aveda because she is an intern but I was told she trained with the master colorist. She said I needed a richer warmer color for my light olive skin tone. She suggested putting a level 7 neutral shade over my hair and said this would help it look richer. I was confused by this. How would putting a level 7 make my hair color richer when I was already slightly darker than a level 7. I asked her about this and she said my hair needs pigment and that it was very fine and it's a good idea to add pigment to fine hair. She said if I wanted to go darker, we could use a level 6 and she wrote 6N on her paper. This confused me because the pictures we looked at together were about a level 5 light to medium brown with subtle warm tones. So, I have three questions:

1) What does she mean by "add pigment" to my hair?

Ans.) Adding pigment or for a better term tinting back would be taking your hair to a darker color than what is it currently. For example going from level 7 which is what you are now to a level 6 or a level 5 would be 1 or 2 levels darker.

2) Should I trust a stylist that just went through her Aveda color training but doesn't have a lot of experience using that training?

Ans.) Colors like Ash are considered cool tones, Neutrals are well neutral they aren't warm or cool they are neutral. Then you have warm tones....like Golden Blonde, Reds, etc.

3) Would I be asking for trouble to just do it at home? After all, I have dyed my hair at home many times before (although I usually went lighter)and have read alot about hair color on the internet. I'm not exactly a hair color virgin and I've heard going a shade darker is supposed to be an easy process.

The boxed stuff can be very drying and damaging on the hair as it's 32% ammonium vs professional stuff which is 3% ammonium.

Also, I asked her about doing a semi-permanent and she said we wouldn't get as good of results so I was wondering why that is. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Ans.) Aveda semi-permanent is not very good. It's translucent when it comes to covering gray. You will get more gray blending than coverage.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PerfectBrunette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 20 2007 at 1:43am
Claude,
You are totally awesome! Thanks so much for educating us. I have another question if you don't mind. What do you do if roots are more orangey-yellow and ends are more yellow gold when choosing a correcting toner? For example, I used a hair color remover and my roots are orange-yellow and my ends are just gold. I want golden beige tones all over. What would you do to even out the color and impart the gold beige?
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Originally posted by PerfectBrunette PerfectBrunette wrote:

Claude,
You are totally awesome! Thanks so much for educating us. I have another question if you don't mind. What do you do if roots are more orangey-yellow and ends are more yellow gold when choosing a correcting toner? For example, I used a hair color remover and my roots are orange-yellow and my ends are just gold. I want golden beige tones all over. What would you do to even out the color and impart the gold beige?


Well if that is the case and lets say your hair is a level 9 but you just did your roots and they only lightened to a level 7 or level 8.  Now you can't just put more color over the darker color as you know by reading my "introduction to color" that color will not lighten previously colored hair.

The only way you could lighten the roots would be to use bleach with something like 10 volume developer. I wouldn't use anything more than 10 volume since you are only looking to lighten it very slighty. However bleaching can be tricky if your not a hairstylist. You can have a friend help you but you should apply the bleach on the darker root area however....stay about 1/2" away from the scalp until you get all the bleach applied to the darker root area. If you apply it right on the scalp to first 1/2" of hair the heat from the head will process the bleach quicker and you will end up with lighter roots because of the heat from the scalp.  This is why you should go back and reapply at the first 1/2" of hair as the rest of the hair lightens.

Bleaching can be tricky it's best to have it done by a trained professional.

Then after the hair might need to be toned with a semi-permanent color like Redken Shades EQ 9N for 5 minutes or so to remove the brassy or yellow gold tones and it will impart a softer beige tone to the blond hair.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PerfectBrunette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 20 2007 at 12:16pm
Oh I don't mind that my roots are slightly darker. I think this looks natural. I just want to tone the whole head without bleaching since I don't want to lighten my hair. And I don't have any color left in my hair. I took it all off with a color remover called Color Oops. This stuff works wonders because it takes off any artificial color you put in your hair while leaving your natural pigments intact. I will try your advice and tone with a semi permanent for 5 minutes. Hopefully that will do the trick. Thanks again! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PerfectBrunette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 21 2007 at 12:27pm
Claude, you've been so helpful. I have another burning question if you don't mind. Is there a way to tone orange tones while keeping the gold tones in my hair?  
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Claude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Claude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 21 2007 at 9:23pm
Originally posted by PerfectBrunette PerfectBrunette wrote:

Claude, you've been so helpful. I have another burning question if you don't mind. Is there a way to tone orange tones while keeping the gold tones in my hair?  


Well you could use something like Redken Shades EQ 9N leave it on for 10 minutes or so then rinse it out and see. Ya can't just put pure blue based ash on the cut the orange because the blue would mix with the gold and that would change....GREENCry

So something with a blue-violet base like Redken Shades EQ 9N should cut both some.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Miffny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 23 2007 at 6:25am
Hi Claude hope you are well just stopping by to say my hair is almost the exact colour I now have 1/2 head blonde foils (20 vol Blondor takes me down to a lovely clean blonde) with a Wella gold/pearl toner 10 vol 10 minutes to break up the darker base &  give palest beige hues to the blonde, my only gripe are the silvery white greys that appear in 10 days after.

My hair is in great condition but I would love some darker beige blonde foils am thinking of Goldwell's colorance in a 7GB I'd love to paint some on myself as the salon is costing me a fortune, but I have no breakage so I guess it's worth the $$$.

Also do you have any views on Shades EQ as in do they run  as I had some alpha parf (hate the stuff just mo) lowlights done in August & they ran into the blond making it look murky even though the foils were filled.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beccibaxter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 26 2007 at 4:56pm
first of all let me say thankyou for having this forum!!!!
 
ok so i have naturally dirty blonde hair which i coloured a sort of beige blonde for about 13 years,well i got bored with it and today i coloured it with schwrzkopf live platinum blonde with built in pre-lightener.it said to leave it on for 30 minutes maximum which i did,but not to leave it on for less than 30 minutes.which i didnt.
anyway i left it on for 30 minutes exactly then rinsed it off and conditioned it as per instructions and it looked fine wet.when i dryed it its gone quite yellow,not very yellow just a bit bright.it doesnt really suit my skin colour as i am very pale.its too brassy for me.also behind my ears its gone brown!!!!!!!!!!!!in patches.
so how can i tone down the yellow and get the white blonde i wanted,i know i cant bleach it again as i dont want to wreck my hair,its currently in great condition.
i dont really understand about 10`s etc as i live in the uk so we only get as far as i am aware the diy products,such as loreal etc.
so what do i use to get rid of the yellow?and get the whiter blonde?
 
aaarrrgggghhhhh help me.
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Claude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Claude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 26 2007 at 8:40pm
Originally posted by beccibaxter beccibaxter wrote:

first of all let me say thankyou for having this forum!!!!
 
ok so i have naturally dirty blonde hair which i coloured a sort of beige blonde for about 13 years,well i got bored with it and today i coloured it with schwrzkopf live platinum blonde with built in pre-lightener.it said to leave it on for 30 minutes maximum which i did,but not to leave it on for less than 30 minutes.which i didnt.
anyway i left it on for 30 minutes exactly then rinsed it off and conditioned it as per instructions and it looked fine wet.when i dryed it its gone quite yellow,not very yellow just a bit bright.it doesnt really suit my skin colour as i am very pale.its too brassy for me.also behind my ears its gone brown!!!!!!!!!!!!in patches.
so how can i tone down the yellow and get the white blonde i wanted,i know i cant bleach it again as i dont want to wreck my hair,its currently in great condition.
i dont really understand about 10`s etc as i live in the uk so we only get as far as i am aware the diy products,such as loreal etc.
so what do i use to get rid of the yellow?and get the whiter blonde?
 
aaarrrgggghhhhh help me.


You could throw some Redken Shades EQ 9N onto your hair for 5 minutes or so to tone it...that should cut the yellow enuff for ya.
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Im so glad i found this forumSmile So much stuff i didnt know about colouring.
 
Claude or anyone else who can help...I have light brown hair that is a bit too goldy brassy looking. It is natural. Im forevor trying to get rid of the gold. I thought id try Goldwell's Colourance 5A light ash brown. From what ive read i need a blue base ash?? Is this goldwell light ash brown blue based?
 
Thanks:)
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