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Haircoloring Introduction to Color....

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kezzie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kezzie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 05 2007 at 7:17am
claude,  i have a question!!!!  im currently using goldwell 11p and ash blonding creme im struggling getting past the gold tones???  im naturally a medium dark brown am i doing somethin wrong???? im aiming to acheive a natural pale blonde even champagne or honey colour!!!
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Claude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Claude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 05 2007 at 8:48am
Originally posted by kezzie kezzie wrote:

claude,  i have a question!!!!  im currently using goldwell 11p and ash blonding creme im struggling getting past the gold tones???  im naturally a medium dark brown am i doing somethin wrong???? im aiming to acheive a natural pale blonde even champagne or honey colour!!!


What is your mixing ratio of developer to color? When using a high lift Goldwell it's 2 parts developer to 1 part color + blonding cream.

So if your using 35ml of 11P + 5ml of blonding cream for a total of 40 ml's you should be using 80 ml's of 40 volume developer.

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kezzie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kezzie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 05 2007 at 9:24am
thank you for the quick response claude, im going to try it!!! ill keep you all posted 
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borne.blonde View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote borne.blonde Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 31 2007 at 6:01pm

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!! Claude...
Thank you for being a helpful mentor here at HB Wink


Edited by borne.blonde - December 31 2007 at 6:30pm
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Miffny View Drop Down
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HAPPY NEW YEAR CLAUDE !!
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Ally<3 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ally<3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 04 2008 at 8:09pm
I read your post about the levels. What about people with red hair?
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Miffny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Miffny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 07 2008 at 12:58am
Natural redheads can sometimes have a few problems going blonde; the red pigment can result in a brassy effect, especially if you try to go too light. Assess your skin tone. It's probably pale, so softer honey blondes will suit you.

Nicole Kidman is a perfect example of getting the right blonde to suit.

I would not attempt this at home but it Can be done !, I was a hairdresser for many years .
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jotheblondeone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jotheblondeone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 17 2008 at 8:21am
Hi an newbie here with a little hair disaster! Unhappy Cry Would love it if Claude or anyone else could give a little advice.help
 
I am naturally light to medium brown, hairdresser says between 5/6 with slightly warm undertones.  I had been using loreal ferria metalic silver blonde (which is extra lightening, no need for a pre-lightener, on roots and then pulled though for 5 mins) for a couple of years which gives me a light to medium blonde base and then I sometimes have a few highlights put in.  The colour is ok, but it is still a little brassy tbh. 
 
Anyway I decided to go a little darker and my hairdresser used the following colour.... 'Organic' brand in golden brown, ......I think a shade 5 or 6 and then a very few highlights on top.
Well I hate it....it was a  dull colour with slight green/ash hues to start with and it came out way too dark ( I was after a very light brown), and so I have been trying lemon juice conditioners to lighten it for the past 2/3 weeks.  It is now starting to look a light, mousy brown with a reddish tone and the highlights are a little brassy looking.
 
I have been reading through and hear what you say about not being able to lighten with just another shade, so does that mean that a highlift tint would work.  I remember when I could afford to get my hair done at my local regis salon that my hairdresser used special ash blonde and then put a few highlights in.  This used to lighten it quite a lot, but the base was still a touch yellow.
I love the look of the wella koleston perfect special blonde range (the nordic trends look gorgeous) bascially I love the cool creamy blonde shades.  I don't mind a light to medium blonde base as long as it is cool and not brassy/yellow. 
I was thinking of using the koleston special ash blonde, but then saw the two new colours 12/61 and 12/81 and the special blonde violet ash and wondered what the difference was compared with the special ash blonde 12/1. Would they be any cooler and possibly not quite as light?
If I proceed with one of the above colours, when my roots are starting to show, would the developer 9 be sufficient or would I need a 12?.......... and is that all I would need (special ash colour and developer....mixed 1+2 with welloxon perfect 9%/12% ). 
Also would I leave it on the roots for a set time and then pull through the rest of hair (how long for each)......or because the ends are not blonde would I have to put it all over?
Hair is not too bad condition just a little dull/dry, but I am conditioning like crazy to help that and it is improving.
 
I know it would be advisable to get it done professionally, but there is no way I can afford it and I think that my colour is just going to get lighter and slightly redder as the brown fades and the previous blonde shows through ..... a rather brassy effect.
 
Thanks for reading and hope you can help in some way Embarrassed
 


Edited by jotheblondeone - January 17 2008 at 8:40am
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Miffny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Miffny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 17 2008 at 9:36am
The Ash/Violet in the 12 series is very soft & a creamy not too much as it can throw a lot of Violet, Wella's Koleston's Ashes are very green so I would go for the ash/violet & I also found it to go a little too violet  it can look pinky ginger in some cases even on light brown dark blonde hair.

If you want a true cool creamy head of hair it has to be bleached & toned with an Ash/Violet that way is truly beautiful, even a 1/2 head of foils toned look great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PerfectBrunette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 17 2008 at 2:14pm
Re: Post by Jotheblondeone,

Jo, what is making your hair color brassy is the underlying pigment showing through. This is why you need to bleach a little first to a yellow or pale yellow and then tone with a very light violet toner.

As far as which shade to use in Goldwell, I don't know but I know it won't make much difference if you don't prepare the hair properly with bleach. This is a tricky thing to do and best left to the salon but if you can't afford it, I'd try starting a new post on the general forums. Many girls here have bleached their own hair at home with success.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jotheblondeone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 17 2008 at 3:59pm
hi, and thanks for your replies..............Are you saying that the wella koleston special blondes, with the developer 9 or 12, would not be enough on their own to lift and get rid of the brassiness from either the dyed blonde/brown or my natural light brown?
 
I seem to remember a few years ago, before I started using the loreal ferria one step colour, that I used a prelightener and then another light blonde shade by garnier nutrisse (can't remember the shade), but it was quite a neutral blonde and when I pulled it through the rest of my hair for last 5 minutes it really made them seem whiter and brighter.
 
I guess, the thing that bothers me is that half of my hair is this permanent brown colour and was uncertain if I could use the wella 12 range or a prelightener on this, as well as my new root growth.
 
I really want to go back to blonde, even if it is a cool  medium blonde and then lifted with creamy highlights.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PerfectBrunette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 17 2008 at 6:03pm
"Are you saying that the wella koleston special blondes, with the developer 9 or 12, would not be enough on their own to lift and get rid of the brassiness from either the dyed blonde/brown or my natural light brown?"

Yes, that is what I am saying. It won't be enough. You will need to lift the color that is there with bleach before attempting to use a blonde toner. There are actually two reasons for this:

1) Your natural haircolor is too dark to use a single process color as developer is only going to lift 2 levels. You are about a level 5 and want to go to a level 8 (medium blonde) with no brassy tones. This requires bleach.

"I guess, the thing that bothers me is that half of my hair is this permanent brown colour and was uncertain if I could use the wella 12 range or a prelightener on this, as well as my new root growth."

2) If you have permanent hair color in your hair, the developer won't even lift the shade at all, leaving you with the same shade as you started out with.

The natural uncolored hair will get lighter but brassy. The dyed hair will not even get lighter since developer only lightens natural hair color, not artificial dyes.

Basically, there is no way around using bleach to get the shade you want.  The bleach will lighten both your natural hair color and the dyed portions. I would probably seek out professional help if I were you since it will be tricky to get all of your hair to lighten evenly.
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Miffny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Miffny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 17 2008 at 11:04pm
Highlifts-AKA 'Special Blondes' cannot lighten hair dramatically unless you are a natural level 8 than 90% of the time toning is required.I myself have never had a gorgeous blonde from a highlift series in any brand not even Goldwells Blonding Creams as the natural hair will mostly throw gold & the higher the volume peroxide the brassier it can get.

A good bleach with 20vol should lift to a pale yellow my hair is dark brown & I use Wella Blondor 20 vol 30 minutes for foils I always have a pale yellow some parts where my hair is naturally lighter goes white..I go to a great  HairDresser who is meticulous with her foiling method & care of my hair.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jotheblondeone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 18 2008 at 2:13pm
Thank you, PerfectBrunette and Miffny for the advice on the special blondes, I thought they were an all in one process when I had them done at the hairdressers, but I had obviously forgotten that they must have bleached first.  I am a lot clearer now, but could you just confirm when you say I need to bleach my hair then tone is that the same as a pre-lightener then chosen shade?
 
Thanks Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PerfectBrunette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 18 2008 at 2:19pm
I am not sure about the term "pre-lightener". Where did you pick that one up? I want to say bleach is a pre-lightener because it pre-lightens your hair to prepare it for the color. I wouldn't worry too much about terminology though as long as you understand what is going on with the hair. I would read Claude's informative guide on pigment levels if you haven't already. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jotheblondeone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 18 2008 at 2:52pm
Hi, here in the UK, you can buy pre-lightener (and sometimes just called lightener) from makes like loreal, garnier nutrisse, B blonde etc.  I am sure it is the same thing as, like you said, it lightens your hair ready for your chosen toner/shade to be applied over the top.  You use either one sachet or two sachets of powder bleach mixed with the developer, depending on your starting shade.
 
Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PerfectBrunette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 18 2008 at 2:56pm
That's so funny. Smile I forget we are in a completely different country! Don't you just love the internet? Yes, I'm sure it's the same thing. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jotheblondeone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 18 2008 at 3:04pm

I know what you mean Big%20smile and the thing is we just presume people know what we are talking about LOL  Everyone seems so much closer when your typing away on your pc .....you do forget that your having discussions with people all over the world!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jotheblondeone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 18 2008 at 8:29pm
 
 
Well, I have just done some highlights with B Blonde (just a few around the front and top as you can see in pic).  I had to leave it on for 85 minutes (almost max time), hair ok condition. 
 It's only a shop bought one, so not sure if something like Wella Blondor would work any better or quicker.
 
 
The highlights have turned out ok.  They have lightened the overall appearance of my hair because I have more at front and its toned down the brassy tone that were from the previous highlights I had done.  I actually quite like the darker very light brown colour at the bottom now LOL
 
I found the highlighting cap easy to use.   I probably would have liked a few more and maybe a touch lighter, but was worried how they would turn out so played it safe.
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Miffny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Miffny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 18 2008 at 11:47pm
Wella Blondor Bleach or any professional bleach would most likely have made the highlights very pale blonde to white in 30 minutes maybe longer depending on what colour your hair was to start with.Some OTC bleaches are not bad.

I think the darker ends look beautiful , the overall colour is very pretty I would be happy with it if I were you Smile


Edited by Miffny - January 18 2008 at 11:47pm
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