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High Lift Blonde Haircolors

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Sophia1 View Drop Down
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    Posted: August 23 2008 at 9:22pm
Hi Everyone-
 
I am new here so please bear with me - I hope I am not the only one who has made the mistake of trying to use High Lift blonde colors ( like L'Oreal Mega Blondes ) on hair that is too dark ( level 4 ash brown ).
 
I used to bleach my hair Light Ash blonde for many years. Just got tired of bleaching my hair, and it was damaging my hair too much. So I tried Mega Blondes in Coolest Ash Blonde and 30 volume. Even with violet drabber added it came out *way* too brassy and reddish.  I realize the hair is just not lifting enough.  It was meant to be used on level 5 or higher.  Mine is level 4.
 
So I decided to settle for a medium-blonde color with just pale highlights to minimize the damaged to my hair. But since using equal parts medium blonde ash blonde color and vol. 40 peroxide is still not quite enough to lift my hair, can I go ahead and use *DOUBLE* 40 volume ? Will that provide a little extra Lift ? I just need about 1 more level to get what I want.  I know, I know..40 volume is strong and damaging ( but still not as bad as bleaching right ?? ) and my hair is NOT relaxed.  So I suppose it's theoretically possible. 
 
The only alternative I see is coloring the hair THEN using something like Luminize ( a gentle 1-level lightener ) on top of that. Kinda sounds damaging, and redundant, but technically it may work.
 
I am just looking for any alternative to 'bleaching' to get dark ash brown hair a medium ash blonde.  I'm off by One Level. Is this even possible ?? I am getting discouraged.  Thanks for any replies ! I know there are a BUNCH of experienced people here.
 
 
 
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Sophia1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sophia1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 30 2008 at 12:18pm
well nevermind, I guess I was mistaken...haha.  No one here has any idea what I am talking about. I will try to experiment some more.
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karen s View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote karen s Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 30 2008 at 1:36pm
Hi Sophia,
 
You need to use 40 vol with all hi lift colours. Your main problem was your level 4 was too dark to lift with hi lift colour only. Hi lift colours are only meant to use really on level 6 dark blonde and up. Also if you are trying to lift previous coloured hair, hi lifts wont lift previously coloured hair, tint wont lift tint, therefore you need to bleach. You can do this gradually with bleach but use the 30 vol, minimal damage to the hair, then you can apply a medium ash blonde to your hair until  your hair tones to the desired colour then wash off, you can use 10 vol for the toning bit as your only depositing  the colour. So low peroxide, causing minimal damage.
 
Karen 
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borne.blonde View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote borne.blonde Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 31 2008 at 7:37am
Double 40 & HL on my 6-7 Gold/blonde natural hair is still not enough to really give an ash look, even with the many brands of ash testing & putting on double 40 & HL TWO TIMES (on swatch experiments) the color may look "lighter" but still will possibly fade brassy or just be more warm and less vibrant than my original color.  I agree with karen_s , if you get to try some clippings or swatches of your hair & see how lifting your hair gently with bleach & 20,25 vol works & gently tone to achieve the cool results you wish for.  Goodluck.  You will notice many use a blonding creme or agent(bleach) when foiling or lifting for toning, glossing.  L0real has high lifts for dark color level hair,  but I have no idea what they do & somehow on the website the few colors just don't look good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fakeizme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 03 2008 at 12:25pm
*This is long!* Great advice from previous posters. Believe me, I know the frustrations of finding the right High Lift blonde! I used to do a two-tone thing, high lifting my roots and covering the resulting brassiness with bleach highlights. It looked pretty good, but there was still warmth there.
 
There is argument whether high lifting is better than bleaching. I've read many professional discussions on it and some of the best colourists are saying that bleach with 20 vol. is less damaging than 40 vol. and high lift (especially double 40). The thing with bleach is just that it is progressive, so if you don't watch it, your hair can melt off! High lift will stop after about 40-50 mins. But, you can often take bleach off before the 50-min. mark and it will get you where you need to be whereas after 50 mins with high lift, you have blasted the cuticle and still don't have blonde hair!Confused Personally, my hair is in way better condition now that I touch up my roots with bleach every month as opposed to doing highlights OVER high lift.  Way less damaging and I can always rely on it being pale blonde.
 
Remember, that with Level 4 hair, you're maybe getting to a Level 8 with high lift -- a very orange/gold area for underlying pigment. There's no colour in the world that's going to cover that warmth!!!Big%20smile
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Sophia1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sophia1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 04 2008 at 9:14pm

Many thanks for all the the replies !!!!...yes I sort of suspected I was going in the wrong direction but really, really did not want to resort to bleaching ( once again ).  And I think my main concern is with the overlap between what has already been high-lifted and the bleaching.  It is a very time consuming and delicate process....especially for someone to do at home.

Part of my frustration is not having a lot of info on how to use volume 40 - which I know is usually not a good idea unless you know what you're doing....I have used vol 30 however it was for dyeing my hair red, not blonde. And as you all know, blonde is an entirely different animal.
 
However, I will give it a try.  After all, as you pointed out the gradual bleaching is probably better in the long run.    
 
I appreciate everyone's input...wish me luck   :-)
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fakeizme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 08 2008 at 12:56pm
Sophia: if you do go the bleaching route, don't forget to apply a heavy conditioner to all your previous highlights so they don't get affected by any stray bleach. Good luck!Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sophia1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 27 2008 at 6:55pm
Hey- just thought I would update you...I did try the bleach route however I screwed up ( totally my fault) because I used Kaleidecolors by Clairol and did not heat it effectively. The application was not too good,l either. But I had no one to help me.

I bleached and then re-bleached. Finally I just gave up and decided to even out the splotches with an all-over color. I went to Sally's and got Second Nature 1/2 medium ash blonde and 1/2 dark neutral blonde, vol 20 for 45 minutes.

Well, it came out rather dark, almost a light brown. However, I knew it would lighten up after a few shampoos.

Now, I have a nice medium ash blonde all-over color, with just a subtle hint of highlights from the previous lightening. Basically, I really like my new hair. It's just ironic that only by screwing it up, did I end up with something I really like now !   Oh, the joys of haircolor ;-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote borne.blonde Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 27 2008 at 11:51pm
WHen your hair is in good condition maybe Instant whip for Gentle lightening (With Activator(s)) or Wellite or even Born Blonde (Haven't tried this but many use this one for DP blondes!) & 7th Stage is for the most resistant hair

http://www.thecreativestudio.com/files/infoguide/liquid_lighteners.jpg

Idk where I read it but I thought Kaleidocolors was for virgin hair only?? I am very curious about it & if it is pretty

I wonder if Kaleidocolors Blue breaks up the red & Violet does the yellow...hmmm.

Cheers to you getting the right color right now! Embarrassed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 28 2008 at 4:34pm

what is instant whip for gentle lightening with activators; wellite; born blonde; and 7th stage ..... are these bleaches or tints, and what are the differences? ...

slps
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sophia1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 28 2008 at 8:41pm
Hi Born Blonde, I used the Kaleidecolors because it says you can use it for highlighting, but you are correct it's not to be used on-the-scalp ( which I didn't).....I also used the 'violet' one because it supposedly neutralizes brassy tones ( which it didn't ! ) so I don't think those various colors really mean anything. But maybe it was just me ....lol

Slps..yes the 7th stage, wellite, born blonde are all bleaches that you must mix with developer ( peroxide- volume 10,20,30 ) to make it lift dark hair for bleaching. Tints are different because they both lift ( not as drastically, only about 3 levels ) and DEPOSIT color at the same time. Bleaches by themselves do NOT put color in your hair, obviously they just remove color.

That's where 'toners' come in - these are gentle colors you can put on top of bleached hair to get the most flattering blonde. Hair that is just bleached and not toned has an ugly, canary yellow look because I read that is the color of the keratin remaining in your hair after bleaching it...most people do not look good with this color :-) This is why people refer to it as 'double processed' because it takes two steps, whereas tints can lift and deposit color in just ONE step...though tints cannot change you from dark brown to lightest blonde in one step..that's more than 3 levels. You have to bleach and tone for that.

Of course, everyone feel free to correct me on these statements, in case I missed something. This is just basic info......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fakeizme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2008 at 1:04pm
Sophia: that's excellent info! You're right on the money.
 
I'm so glad you got your colour to look the way you wanted. It's funny it was all a result of a mistake! I think this kind of shows though, how bleaching and THEN colouring over the hair can get you the exact look you want. It's just a bit of a hassle. Now that you know how to get that result, you can do that only to your roots every month (if you're up for it!).
 
I keep thinking I want to go back to highlighted hair (from all-over blonde and brown underneath now). Then I remember how difficult it was to do colour, THEN use a brown to get rid of the brassiness, THEN use a highlight kit to bring out the blonde that went dark from the colour!!!! Ugggh.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sophia1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2008 at 8:50pm
Fakeizme :  How right you are !!!
 
I always had the impression highlights were easy and fun ( I am so retarded ).  Now I know better  :-)
 
To tell you the truth, I have no idea what to do in the next few weeks.
I am afraid to do anything !  Yes, it is a HUGE hassle. 
 
I will probably be back on the board begging for more help after I screw it up the next time ( in about 3 weeks ).....  hehehe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nycolorist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 01 2008 at 12:59pm
Rule of thumb :color does not lift color. For natural looking harmonious hair color never lift more than Two levels + highlights

To get a virgin head of hair from dark ash brown to a medium ash blonde:

you have 2 choices.First choice would be to lift to a light ash brown using a permanent light ash brown color (green base) roots to ends with 20 vol developer.This would bring you to a light ash brown. Then you would highlight to a beige med blonde using a lightener(basic white).The second choice would be to heavy highlight using a lightener with a blue base.Bring highlights up to a beige color. If highlights come up to yellow, tone with semi perm color.  

To get a non- virgin head of hair from a dark ash brown to a medium ash blonde  the only thing you can do is  highlight using powder lightener such as basic white to a beige blonde and or tone using semi permanent .But before you go and use "bleach"

try this: Get a bottle of metalex. drench your hair from roots to ends.cap it.
wait about 30 minutes.rinse and do it again.This will get out a lot of color build-up.you can even add a cap or so of 20 vol developer to it to remove semi permanent color.(THIS IS NOT A COLOR STRIPPER)will not lighten hair.It just gets out a lot of crap that shampoo does not.It will also condition and prepare any damaged hair for chemical processes such as highlighting with "bleach"
 hope I could helpBig%20smile

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fakeizme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 01 2008 at 2:34pm
Originally posted by Sophia1 Sophia1 wrote:

.... 
I will probably be back on the board begging for more help after I screw it up the next time ( in about 3 weeks ).....  hehehe
 
Heehee! Well beg away! I know what you mean about dreading the retouch because you never know if it's going to come out the way you plan. Hopefully, you'll mess up again and get it right!!!LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote borne.blonde Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 09 2008 at 11:22am
Yes! Good points fakeizme & nycolorist.  Metalex, & I like the Idea of using the *Basic White 2* & Tone with Creme Toner 301 or Demi or semi...But the Creme toners smell GOOD & tone highlights nicely.   Use them on damp towel dried hair (the bleached peices) so it will soak up the color with 20 vol.

I messed with a WEIRD Wella 12P-T Blue-Violet (more like GREEN)... It is just too dark & too tricky.

I need a good porosity equalizer... Any Suggestions??? Idk much of regenal or matrix aloxxi. I have the former however.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aesthetic_angel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 08 2013 at 7:43pm
aha... this is easy... rules of colour. if you are a natural level 4 and down developer will give you one less level of lift. so if you want to be a medium ash blonde from a level 4 you need to get to a 7.1. which is 3 levels of lift.

but because the rules of colour say that FROM a level 4 AND down you get one level less of lift you will think of the necassary lift as 4levels.

easiest way to get there is pre lighten with a 20vol liquid developer and bleach powder. this will leave you with a level 5.

now to get to a cool medium blonde 7.1 you need to consider your underlying pigment. this will be a red in level 5. to neutralise that red pigment you need green. the underlying pigment of a 7 is green.

so a 7.1 should be suitable to get you to a medium ash blonde.

so mix 7.1 with a 20vol developer and leave on as stated on manufacturers instructions
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aesthetic_angel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 08 2013 at 7:46pm
40v developers can only be used with highlifting blondes and not with normal colour
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