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Yellow Blond to Neutral Ash - complicated history

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what_project View Drop Down
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    Posted: October 01 2008 at 11:40am
Ever since I found this forum, only good things keep happening to my hair! So here I am again with a question or ten. Smile

Currently I have yellowish-blond hair, level8-9, but my natural color is starting to grow out and I want to put in some low-lights and filler to match it. I'd leave some parts lighter blond as highlights.

My natural color is somewhere between Medium Ash Blond and Darker Ash Blond. The "ash" is absolutely neutral in color, no warmer tones in it of any kind, no greens either. Darker Platinum is what I would call it.

I had treated my hair a few times to get it blonde.  It used to be dyed into nice vivid red (semi-permanent box color), the 3 inches at the ends had henna on them. I managed to get that all into 8-9 level blonde. As a result, it's pretty damaged but I control it quite nicely through products. I also do a strand test religiously, every time I try to do anything.

Currently I use Schwartzkopf ColorSave Purple shampoo, to kill the yellow. I also use Wella 8.81 Silver Toner. They help but not 100%.

Any "ash" haircolor that I tried as a filler turns out too green, doesn't work. Igora has a nice 8-16 color, "Lightblond Ash Choco", it purples up nicely, but I want to find (or mix) something that's level 7 or maybe even 6.

Help!!!  pretty please!!!

Thank you in advance!!



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nycolorist View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nycolorist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 01 2008 at 1:40pm
Try Clairol #25 mix it with equal parts 20 vol developer.
On damp towel dried hair mix it though roots to ends for about 3-to 5 min.
or until you start to see it turn a purplish color.
Rinse, towel dry.
if you like the color ,shampoo
if not put it back on for a few more minutes.
Repeat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fakeizme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 01 2008 at 2:14pm
Well...it sounds like you have a pretty good base of colour knowledge! Great that you managed to get from vivid red to blonde!
 
It sounds like your hair goes green because you are putting an ash colour that is at least three levels darker onto your light blonde hair. You must fill it with either gold or neutral BEFORE you do that or mix the gold/neutral into your formula. Your hair will always absorb darker and drabber when you put colour on it at that level (blonde). Remember, it's porous. Try a test strand with either a semi or demi golden blonde on it, followed by your ash formula. Always stay at least two levels above where you want to go as it will always go darker. Good luck!Smile
Love clip-ins and tape!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote what_project Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 01 2008 at 2:41pm
Originally posted by fakeizme fakeizme wrote:

Well...it sounds like you have a pretty good base of colour knowledge! Great that you managed to get from vivid red to blonde!


heee... guess where I got that knowledge! from you guys!

So, how do I fill it with neutral? I guess I want an almost monochromatic level 6/7, because that's how my natural hair is. All the fancy color will go into highlights only.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fakeizme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 02 2008 at 12:32pm
Awesome that you actually learn from all these posts! I know I have learned a lot.Tongue
 
When I see 'neutral' filler I mean a colour that is labelled 'natural' or 'neutral' on it. So it would be a blonde colour, likely a Level 8, that has a base of yellow, blue and red (brown). Of course, depending on what brand you are using, it will be labelled differently. It's not ash and it's not gold. See...the trick is you want to fill in all those pigments that got lifted out with bleach. Believe me, you WILL get a monochromatic color because the hair will be porous and want to absorb the colour darker and ashier! Even if it does look a bit dark at first, it will lighten after even one wash. That can be good and bad, I guess eh? LOL
Love clip-ins and tape!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote what_project Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 02 2008 at 2:25pm
I had used Majirel 7 Blonde and that's the one that turned greenish on me - that lovely mold hue. Embarrassed  I had to use citric acid to get it out.

I've been reading about Igora toners - they say "serve perfectly as pastel toners on pre-lightened hair". The 9.5-0 Neutral says "softens yellow pigment". But the description also says "used alone, on non-gray bases - no balancing capacity by themselves". That got me all confused. And 9 is probably too light anyway.

Also, is a filler a demi? or a toner? If I use permanent color but with volume 9 developer, how would that work? would that be a deposit only?



Edited by what_project - October 02 2008 at 4:03pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote what_project Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 03 2008 at 12:17pm
Forgot to add a question about protein filler. I'm in Europe so no Sally's here. Can anyone recommend a brand that can be easier to find here? (in particular, I've seen a lot of L'Oreal and Schwarzkopf around.)
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