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colorists please help: Redken Fusion

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Elissa View Drop Down
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    Posted: April 14 2003 at 7:56pm
As some of you may know, I am trying to find a way to return to my natural color (medium-to-dark very warm brown) while achieving perfect gray coverage (I'm approx. 25% resistant grey--mostly in temple area).

I plan to achieve this by applying the appropriate permanent formula to my virgin roots only, while having my layers trimmed every eight weeks to cut out the old color, which is 2N neutral dark brown (very dark).

The experiment I did last week, with the semi-permanent medium warm brown proved that I do actually want this color, but the grey came out too red, proving (I think) that I needed a bit of a darker base color (I used "cinnamon stick-medium warm brown" Natural Instincts).

Here is the question: I am going to be working with Redken Fusion. I did an experiment tonight on a few patches with pure 3N of Fusion (med. neutral brown): one in the sides and one closer to the top (less grey area). The results were: good grey coverage, but too neutral, too dark--not warm enough. None of my natural red tones are coming through.

I need help coming up with a formula for a much, much warmer medium brown, but not auburn. I still want it to be brown. I believe I am a natural level 3. I've studied the Color Fusion Level System, and the shades, and it appears that I probably need to mix one of the GR's or CR's with my 3N, or with some level of 3. Are the Rc's (red copper) too red for me? OR, should I just be using #3Gb + a gr or cr and forgo the 3N completely?

This is from Redken's site, as an example:

Natural levels: 2-4
with Up to 100% gray
to achieve Baking Chocolate Brown
1/2 oz. 4NN NEUTRAL/NEUTRAL
1/2 oz 2Gr GOLD/ red
1 oz. 20 Volume Pro-Oxide

Perhaps what I really need is 4N or 4NN + the Gr or cr (as in the formula above)? Maybe 3N is too dark to get the warm rich brown I desire?

I don't want to be a redhead, or even an auburn. I just want a beautiful, warm, rich, shiny medium brown with noticeable red undertones, like my natural color.

My colorist friend is going to discuss this with me (and she'll be picking up the color for me), but I am interested in what Sophie, Lillibeach and the other professionals think about the formula I'm looking for.

As always I appreciate your opinions and expertise. And, I am determined to do this at home (I've worked with Framesi at home successfully for years, and feel very comfortable going for this kind of tone-on-tone coloring). I promise you if any serious lifting was involved I would definitely go to the salon. So I beg your indulgence with my amateur home endeavors.

Thank you so much for your time!!!

Elissa
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LiliBeach View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LiliBeach Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 14 2003 at 9:26pm
Hi Elissa


The NN series is for better coverage of grey. However, You may not need the NN series. You told us that you are 25% grey but what is your texture and condition of your hair.

The formula you quoted from the Redken website sounds like a good one. If you use the gb series without lifting it can turn alittle green. The GR series would be much prettier.

I would use 3/4 3N and 1/4 3Gr with 20 volume developer. You do not want to use 10 volume because it does not have enough cuticle lifting power to cover grey.

Remember to leave it on for 45 minutes. The directions say 30-45 minutes but do leave it on for 45 minutes and rinse until the water runs clear, then shampoo. This allows the cuticles to close back down, if you don't allow them to the pigment will come back out.

I am a former Redken Regional Performing Artist. Translation: I was an educater for Redken, I taught other salons and fellow stylist Redken Color.
I am also booked 60 hours a week with clients, doing color all day. I know Redken color as well as I know my 10 year old son.

Just alittle bit of my background.
I hope this helps
I am a professional Hairstylist/Haircolorist with 19 years experience. I have traveled all over the country for my advanced education. I am also a salon owner.:)........and I LOVE Redken!!!
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Elissa View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Elissa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 15 2003 at 4:09am
Thanks so much Lilli, for the fast reply.

My hair texture is medium, and it's thick and wavy. It's in excellent condition, as I recently cut about 3 inches off, but the ends are a wee bit on the dry side since my hair is still below shoulder length. but I will only color the virgin roots. The old hair will be cut away gradually.

The 3N covered the grey pretty darn well, and I left it on a full 45 minutes. I guess if at any point I'm not happy with the grey coverage, I can change from 3N to 3NN.

Thanks for the insight on the Gb's vs. the Grs, that was exactly the kind of advice I was hoping for.

Question: why 3/4 3N 1/4 3gr and not 2/3 - 1/3 ? Do you believe that 1/4 of the 3gr will be enough? I wouldn't want to go through all of this trouble and still end up with too dark or too neutral. I really, really want this warmth.

Just to add a bit of a product review here for the board: even just from the little patch tests, I can see that Fusion is gorgeous color. I washed them out with All-Soft shampoo and used the conditioner and they're soft, shiny and terrific!

I will keep you updated. Thank you, thank you, thank you for sharing your expertise! I appreciate it so much!

Elissa
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LiliBeach View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LiliBeach Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 15 2003 at 10:38pm
Hi,

The GR series,as with any of the Fushion Red series, is strong with red pigment. So go easy handed on the Gr.

I am a professional Hairstylist/Haircolorist with 19 years experience. I have traveled all over the country for my advanced education. I am also a salon owner.:)........and I LOVE Redken!!!
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