QuoteReplyTopic: Hair Coloring Posted: September 10 2008 at 2:28pm
Hi..Ive been usining Goldwell Topchic 7A w/20% developer on Grey hair about 60-70% grey.... left on for 30-35 minutes..looks nice when done...after 1-2 washings you can see the grey roots starting to show again...what am I doing wrong...thanks
I'm not a pro and have no experience personally with gray hair, but from what I know I would guess its one of two problems.
#1 Either your hair is growing fast (that you would know because you'd see your roots as a straight line fairly close to your head).
Or #2, your roots are more resistant to the dye than the rest of your hair because the rest has been dyed before so is more porous and the dye makes it in there and stays. (Gray hair can have a tough cortex which makes it hard for dye to penetrate it well.).
If its number 2, you can try a few tricks to get better penetration into resistant gray hair. One is applying the dye alone (no developer) to the resistant gray parts for 10 minutes, wiping it off with an old rag, then applying your dye mix (this works best for ammonia based dyes). The other trick is to apply developer for 10 or 20 minutes to only the resistant gray, wiping that off, then dyeing with the mix. Both methods should help open the cortex of the resistant grays before you dye it.
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Is that an Ash blonde or light brown you are using ?
There is an old colorists trick of using a pale gold blonde color first - then coloring again with the desired color. The high lift gold penetrates grey better.
You should also leave your color on longer - 45 to an hour at least - and/or apply some gentle heat (everyone be careful with this - it can make roots too bright if using a more intense shade like red).
One last thing - prior to coloring shampoo just the roots with a mix of baking soda and shampoo, this will expand the cuticle and improve absorption of the dye. Make sure hair is dry before coloring though, wet hair would dilute the developer making it weaker.
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