Either one actually it depends on your hair length and the Stylist.
Many Stylist don't do caps at all. There are different types of caps...there is one type that I like for certain heads, and I'm good with it..it takes practice and there are rules.
The lightener is applied with a bowl and brush so you can put it just on the base, carefully so the ends are not in the lightener.
I almost always have to tone after the base is lightened and the cap is removed, because the lightener (bleach) leaves the hair bright and unnatural looking. The toner softens, and blends. Many Stylists don't tone, but it really is the difference between a great highlight and a mediocre one. IMHOCHEERS
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