Question about "color not lifting color"

 

OK let me clarify this for you a bit. It is a fundamental law of color that color doesn't lift previously colored hair...let me elaborate.

 

For example your hair is a natural level 5 and you color it to a level 7. For summer you want to go a little lighter so you get a level 9 and throw over the already previusly colored hair and it doesn't lighten it. Color doesn't lighten artificial pigment from previously colored hair.

 

As for your color disaster with a lvl 5 hair going to a lvl 9 you should have used 40 volume developer to lift 4 levels....processing time 45 min to get that lift and to tone the unwanted brassiness you should have used a Pearl or blue-violet base to neutralize that yellow. From the sounds of it you were a level 5 going using 30 volume trying to get to a level 9...well 30 volume will only lift 3 levels and that's about 35-40 minutes processing time it depends on the hair's porosity and several other factors that all play a factor in how it processes. If you only processed less than that time you might have only achieved a level 7 or slightly lighter but not a lvl 8 and the underlying pigment in a 7 is orange which is what you are seeing in the hair and this is why the result you had turned out the way it did.

 

Toning the hair is completely different than changing the level of the haircolor. Toning is exactly what it means it's changing the overall tone of the and not the lightness or the darkness of the hair. It might look lighter or darker depending on what you use to tone but overall you are not changing the level of the color.

 

Always tone with demi or demi-permanent color. By the way is your hair previously colored before you tried to lighten it as directed by the lady from Sally's? Remember these folks in Sally's typically are do it yourself color types like yourself and not licensed professionals. Many times they might think they know what's best for your hair and how to fix the color but I wouldn't take their advice as gospel.

 

As for your hair I'd honestly have to see it to better see how to fix it but from the sound of it you want those orange tones gone....try a little 8A leave it on for 5 minutes then rinse it out, dry it, etc. Do a test strand to see the results before you do your whole head. If it's still brassy you might want to apply it for 5 more minutes...shouldn't take longer than that to tone it.

 

G'luck