To hot roll or use velcro??

Hi,

Here is what the hair pros do......to create great long lasting & great curls.

1.  Shampoo with best product for hair type, texture and condition.  If your hair is normally "slippery" or overly soft....avoid using rinse or other conditioners that make it "too soft".  If you want to use a rinse-out conditioner...just make sure that you don't leave it on too long or soften the hair too much.

The key to great long lasting curls is to create them on hair that has a little "grip".  Too soft strands will not hold a curl pattern well.

2.  Towel blot to remove excess moisture.  Detangle well starting at ends and working up towards the roots.  Go slow to avoid ripping or pulling hair that is most delicate when it is wet.  Apply a good thermal protection product before you start to blow dry.  I personally use  leave-in conditioners that coat my hair and prevent heat damage.  Or you can use a good mousse that will help to hold a set and protect against heat blasts. 

3.  Use a blow dryer and a medium sized round boar's bristle brush.  Do not use a metal round brush.  This heats up the hair too fast.  Use a slow, medium heat setting.  If you use too much heat or too much air, it can overblow the hair which is the opposite problem of overly soft strands.

4.  Separate hair into 1-2 inch sections.  Divide and conquer.  If desired, clip off the other sections that you are not working on at the time.  Focus on one section at a time.

5.  Direct the heat from the blow dryer "up" the shaft to build in volume AND while blow drying, roll the individual section of hair carefully around the round brush and roll "up" the shaft to add fullness and volume.  Direct the blow dryer heat at the section of hair that is rolled around the brush.

6.  Take your time.  Work slowly and make sure each section is 100% dry.  As you finish drying each section, stop and roll the section around your finger to form a fat looped curl.  Pin the curl tightly against your scalp using a bobby pin. If you have a cool/cold shot button on your blow dryer...direct a blast to the finished section that is pinned.  Cold air helps to "set" the curl pattern.

Spray with a firm hold hairspray.  Let section "set and cool" while you work around the head.

7.  Continue to work around your head until all sections are dry and then pinned to your head.  Be sure to spray each one with a firm hold spray.

8.  Let hair completely cool and dry from the hairspray.  The longer you can leave it pinned up...the better.

9.  Remove the pins one by one.  Use fingers to "arrange" curls.  If they are not tight enough for your liking....use either medium sized hot rollers (not Velcro) OR a medium sized curling iron.

Wrap each curl around either the curlers or the iron.  If you use the iron option, leave the hair wrapped around the barrel for no more than 30-60 seconds.  If you use hot rollers, you can leave them in until they cool off.

If you use the iron option, once you remove the iron, again, pin the new curl against your scalp to let the hair "set and cool". 

If you use the hot roller...let it cool completely and then remove.

Spray with hair spray and then use fingers to carefully arrange.  You can also use a hair pick that will allow you to gently pick the curls a bit and arrange. 

Using your fingers and/or a pick allows you to create a messy...tousled...loose look.  You can also use a brush if you prefer to great "waves".  Experiment and play with your hair until you get the look you love. 

I have watched celebrity hairdressers create long lasting curls (I watched Ken Paves create curls on Jessica Simpson) and this is exactly what he did.

Some closing thoughts:

1.  The smaller the hot roller...the tighter the curl.
2.  The smaller the barrel of the hot iron...the smaller and tigher the curl.
3.  Instead of pinning hair in "free form" loops as described above...you can immediately roll them in Velcro rollers instead.  This will give  more uniform curl pattern. 
4.  If you wish to do a "wet set" then you can shampoo, detangle, towel blot and then divide hair into section.  Dry hair until about 80% dry and then roll in a Velcro roller.  Once hair is rolled into the Velcro roller it can be dried with the nozzle of the blow dryer.  Do not put nozzle of heat too close to the hair or it can cause heat damage. 
5.  Let hair completely "dry and cool" in Velcro rollers.  Then remove.
6.  For hair that does not hold curl or will not curl in the first place the keys are using the right products to prep the hair, using hot tools such as blow dryer, curling iron or hot rollers to "heat" the cuticles so the pattern can be formed and then allow to cool down to "set".

Special Note:  If you hair is damaged from dyes, chemicals or other issues....avoid using hot blow dryers, curlers, irons or other "hot" tools except for special events.  To help hair recover from any damage...when possible...let it air dry. 

Hope that helps.

Best wishes,
Karen Shelton
HairBoutique.com

I've been wanting to try the wavy/messy hair look with mine and not sure what would work best.  Should I use velcro rollers or get some hot rollers?  I have BSL normal/fine hair.