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My plan of action (please help)

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aubergine View Drop Down
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    Posted: February 02 2006 at 1:23pm
Hi Claude.

I live in England and don't have a Sally's anywhere near me, so I've never actually been!  I have used colour remover on my hair twice and it was with Goldwell, not Colorfix.  I can't get hold of Colorfix here, so one of the kind members of the forum is sending me a box.

I usually use L'Oreal Preference hair colour, but most recently I've used Clairol Nice n Easy Light ash brown.  This is how it turned out on hair that had been stripped.

I always apply dye to my roots first, and leave it on the longest, then bring the dye down the the rest of the hair, ends last.  My hair is most porous at the tips and at the front sides, and it is darker there.  Even if I only apply dye to my roots the rest of the hair still grabs it when it's being washed out - I honestly can't win!

On the picture the roots is not my natural colour, my natural colour is less orangey and more light.  This is just the faded remnants of the light ash brown dye on the roots, after stripped hair.  I deep condition my hair with salon products regularly and always use a gentle shampoo and conditioner for coloured hair.  I'm am very kind to my hair considering, but my hair obviously isn't very kind to me!
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Claude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Claude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 02 2006 at 8:23am

Aubergine what color line are you using on your hair? Some of that Sally's stuff is very high in ammonium and that could be drying out your hair and blowing open the cuticle layer on your hair strands. Wella is very high in ammonium too however I do personally like their Wella on the scalp lightener cream. Might want to try some Redken or Goldwell if you can get your hands on it. Actually Chi color doesn't even use ammonium. I've don't have much experience with it but it is growing in popularity among hairstylists and I myself am set to take a class on the Chi color line. Colorfix is probably not a very good color remover and the reason your hair keeps going darker is because some of that artificial color is still in the hair strand after using colorfix. I'm not famaliar with that color remover so I can't help you there. It could take 2 tries to get all that color out but be careful any chemical service dries out the hairstrands. This is why you need to use moisturizing shampoos for color treated hair. Possibly deep condition your hair often to improve it's condition after using Colorfix.

When you begin applying your haircolor where do you begin putting it on? You should begin at the scalp and apply it thru to the mid-shaft on all your hair then pull it thru to the ends. THe hair on the ends is more porous and absorbs the color more quickly. It looks as if the hair on the ends is darker than the hair further up...maybe it's just the picture too I dunno. Is the roots your natural haircolor? You need to do different processes on your previously colored hair than you do your virgin regrowth aka your roots to attain the same color. The Ash or Natural Ash color is what we call a drabber to help control the brassiness of darker levels of haircolor. You don't add much just a pinch to your formula to give you what we like to call control so the color doesn't end up brassy.

Hope I'm helping you and not confusing you...sorry. If you are more confused look up on the internet "Laws of Color".

Maybe re-reading this will help you understand better.

http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/tip095.htm

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aubergine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aubergine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 02 2006 at 7:29am
 

 

Ok, this is me now, with my new shorter hair (still not used to it yet!), and just look at my god-awful roots!  Eugh!  I didn't know they were that bad in the light.  You can also see how much orange there is in my hair...I seriously need to sort it out.
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aubergine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aubergine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 02 2006 at 6:56am
It did kinda confuse me! 

I'm not going blonde - I'm naturally a level 8/9, and I'm currently a dyed level 2/3, but I want to be a level 4/5 light ash brown.  Every time I try and dye over Colorfixed hair, whether it be the lightest possible ash brown dye - my hair still goes dark brown with lots of brassiness in. 

My dyed hair completely sucks up the dye - to almost black - then it fades to dark brown; and my natural blonde roots won't take it well at all.  It's so annoying, because I have such light roots, my hair won't go all one colour.

Part of me thinks I should just go extreme and dye it bloody black again!!!  Either that or let it grow out, dying the roots with the same light brown gradually until the light brown looks sorta natural.  Argh!

My dream colour is actually not brown at all, it's actually a rich dark red colour with lighter red highlights...but I can't have that because my funky mum has bright red hair and I'd look too much like her!!!
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Claude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Claude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 01 2006 at 11:33pm

I'd say if your mixing haircolor to add a pinch of ash into your mixture. The more your change your haircolor and by that I mean going from a natural level 5 to a level 7 or level 8 you would begin to loose control of your desired color. In other words you need to offset that color to help control or prevent brassiness. You could use a little Ash at the desired color level in part of your mixture. That Ash to offset that should never be more than 25% of the mixture by that I mean let's say you are using the following....

40mls of 30 Volume Developer - Depending on the Developer it should give you 2-3 levels of lift...most likely 2 levels of lift.

If the color mixture is a 1:1 ratio of Developer to color you would use the 40mls of 30 Vol then for the color you could use....

30mls of 7N - Desired Color or whatever your target color is plus 10mls of 7A or 7NA (Natural Ash) to help control the brassiness because you are raising the haircolor up several levels. When you get into the blonde colors you would be using violet based colors to control the brassiness instead of Ash. If your hair is porous you might want to use 35mls of 7N or the desired color and just a pinch 5mls of 7A or 7NA to control that brassiness. If you hair is porous it will have a tendency to pull the ash color and you could end up with greenish hues.

Hope that helps...post of PM me with questions you might have. I hope I didn't confuse you any.

G'luck

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aubergine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 01 2006 at 11:44am
We're allowed to buy from beauty supply shops - if you can find them/afford them without getting the bulk deals like salons do. 
It's true that the salons hog all the professional supplies - it sucks.  But luckily there's a lot on Ebay sold by the salons themselves when they have too much stock, and that's really crazy cheap. 

We have Sally's but the one closest to me is in Warrington - a good few hours away, and there's one in scotland too...but I don't drive so I can't get to either.
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Susan W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Susan W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 01 2006 at 7:26am
Not really.  I'm not a pro and I always got my stuff at Sally where you buy what the pros buy, and it has the base written on the dye so its real easy to get what you need.  I've heard that in England you aren't allowed to buy at the beauty supply shops?  I'd call the company of the dye you can get and ask them which have green (and definitely test strand to make sure any part of it doesn't come out too green if its not starting out as orange).
Making metal barettes/concord clips hair safe, long hair style how to: http://alonghair.wordpress.com
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aubergine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aubergine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 31 2006 at 11:56am
OK, so the nice n easy one is out then.  That definitely has a violet base because it looked purple as i rinsed it. 
Thanks for the help susan!

BTW, do you know of any ash brown dye brands that definitely have green bases?


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Susan W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Susan W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 31 2006 at 7:11am
I'd say wait and see how it comes out.  Many ash colors have green bases, especially browns.  This should significantly reduce any red or brassiness.  To make sure, you could call the company that makes the dye you choose and ask them if the ash is violet or green.  Violet won't reduce redness, so you would use a violet based dye if your colorfixed hair comes out yellow with no orange, and green only if your colorfixed hair comes out orange.  If you use the right base in your dye and you colorfix your hair so that it is all one starting color, you shouldn't need a toner.


Making metal barettes/concord clips hair safe, long hair style how to: http://alonghair.wordpress.com
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aubergine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aubergine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 31 2006 at 6:28am
Hi,

I've left my hair alone for a week or so now.  I've cut it really short (just touching shoulders, with lots of layers in) and it looks better because the really dark, almost black, tips are gone.  Also my hair is in really good condition now.

However, my 2-tone hair colour still isn't sorted. 
What I propose to do is strip the colour again - with that seemingly magical Colorfix - and get my hair as dye-less and light as I can.  Then I'm going to dye over again, with perhaps a slightly darker ash brown to balance the roots and ends, leaving the dye on the roots longest.  After this my hair will probably be too dark (hopefully not with lots of test strands), and have a lot of red in it.

That's where I'm kinda stuck.  Is there any toner I could use to get rid of the brassiness in the hair?  Or any other products?  I don't mind having red in the hair - I just hate it when it's more on the orangey side that comes after stripping or bleaching hair.  When my hair goes up to the light it is dark orange - it's awful.

Please please please can you help me?

(I'll post some pictures of my hair at the moment soon)
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