QuoteReplyTopic: choosing the correct deposit color Posted: September 21 2008 at 5:45pm
Good Points...Things do change across lines & are for each individual...They also change the rules for Greys too like using 20 vol & higher level than desired to get the proper level & NN Neutral colors.
Edited by borne.blonde - September 21 2008 at 5:57pm
Thanks, BB! I really needed that equation in the William guide to help me understand how all those charts determine the level of of artificial color to use. I can also see that there is some variation depending on the manufacturer and recommended developer.
Edited by Arjuna - September 21 2008 at 4:38pm
-- conveniently shortened to "Anne".
borne.blonde
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HI! Did you read through Claude's tips yet? http://talk.hairboutique.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=40328 http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/tip095.htm William/Hair Boutique File Guide
Color Theory (note Natural Levels & Contributing Pigment & Dictionary etc. These can go for all brands & the brand you choose may have a Color Chart Online or to purchase / free
http://www.ioncolorbrilliance.com/Permanent_Hair_Color/How_To_Use/tone.asp Color Wheel Contributing Pigment & Artificial Color= Final Result
http://www.ioncolorbrilliance.com/Permanent_Hair_Color/How_To_Use/formulation.asp Choosing Developer For Formula
You said NL2 to DL5=Vol30 &Level 6 color acording to this particular Chart. They chose Level 6 to bump up the "lift". Choosing 1 to 2 shades LIGHTER than DL gives lift or Choosing a higher volume can like 40 vol usually for level 2.
1. Determine the hair's natural level. 2. Determine the level to which you want to take the hair. 3. Determine the tone; you're trying to get the hair either warm or cool, and then select a color. 4. Determine what developer you need to use with the color you've chosen.
1. Color wheel. Know what it is and what it means. 2. Color line. On the color wheel, locate the color line that’s involved in what you are trying to achieve. For example, if a client comes in with orange hair, you have to find the correct level of blue on the other side of the wheel. 3. Remaining pigment contribution. When you lighten hair, you remove pigment. What pigment is left? All hair contains yellow, red and blue. So if you remove the blue pigment, which is removed first, you’re left with yellow and red. Red is removed second, which leaves yellow. You must know what you’re removing, where you’re lifting it to and what pigment remains. 4. How peroxide affects timing. Timing of hair color is crucial; a timing error will produce undesirable results such as breakage. 5. Formulation. If a client has uneven hair, you must break down the areas of the head and formulate color for each individual area. Maybe the client has one inch of regrowth, four inches of colored hair and then her ends. Formulate the color accordingly for each section. The only time you can go with one color from scalp to ends is when you’re going darker, and then only sometimes. 6. Color application. Even if you’re formulating correctly, you cannot apply the color from scalp to ends and get even results. It will never, ever happen! Apply each section appropriately, and you’ll get even results on uneven hair. 7. Repigmentizing. If the client comes in with blonde hair and you need to take it back to brown, you must know which colors to fill with. 8. Removing color. If the client has color on her hair and wants to go lighter, you must remove the hair color first and then go in with the desired color.*credit to FirstChair
(will write more soon)
Edited by borne.blonde - September 20 2008 at 10:53pm
I’m a hair color newbie, and I think I understand the underlying color theory but I have two practical questions:
Determining the level of deposit color for 1-step coloring:
Let’s say I want to lift level 2 brown hair to a level 4 or 5 brown in one step using Wella Koleston Perfect.I understand that I should use the 20 volume developer to accomplish this.
But how do I choose the deposit color? I know not to use Wella Koleston 5.1, because the deposit color should be lighter than the target color.But how much lighter? Is there some kind of equation for determining the proper deposit color, or do I need to consult the formulation chart for each manufacturer?
Determining the level of deposit color for 2-step coloring:
Let’s say I get skeptical about the 1-step concept and decide to pre-lighten.In this scenario,I would lift the level 2 hair to the dark orange stage before depositing color.Do I still need to choose a deposit color that is lighter than the target color (example: using 6.1 to achieve a level 5 target color), or would I choose a deposit color that is the same level as the target color (example: using 5.1 to achieve a level 5 target color).
I would appreciate any insight into these questions that the more experienced colorists on the board are willing to offer. I hope to understand the underlying concepts so that I can eventually experiment with hair color on my own instead of simply following the instructions.
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