Question for Karen Shelton

Hi Karen.

I need some advice on whether I would be better off getting my hair permanently straightened or whether I should just get a really high quality ceramic flat iron. The reason I wanted to ask u is becuz I read the post where u mentioned being a professional so that's just the advice i need! (But if anyone else has advice don't hesitate )

Anyways, the thing is my hair is color-treated but not double-processed. I have my 19th b-day in April and I've been thinking abt which would be a better present. (hehe, my mom will prob. treat me to this) Is it a bad idea to get permanent straightening is hair is color treated? My hair is really outta control is its not straight, and being in college always cuts the time short so I would like to know what you think is the best decision. I mean, which will mean less damage in the long run? Becuz if I get a ceramic iron, I intend to invest in a really good one from sally's, and to use it everytime I shower, which is every other day. I also have really strong and thick hair. But if I get it perm. straightened, it'll only a chemical treatment once and I won't have to burden myself afterevery wash. So please help me out w/ this dilema. Also, my hair is straight at the top half and then wavy and frizzy at the bottom (even as virgin hair) so I would'nt need to worry abt touch-up every 4-6 months. (I could stretch it out for longer)

Sorry this is so long, but your advice would REALLY be appreciated!

Thanks!

Hi Veronica,

Thanks for visiting us at HairTalk.  I noticed that you recently joined the forums and hope you will visit and post often.

To answer your questions which you posed to me:

While I have been studying, writing and reporting about hair, as a result of HairBoutique.com, since 1996, I am not a licensed hair professional. The media refers to me as a "consumer hair advocate or  consumer hair expert".

I am not sure where you saw a post that said I was a professional because I have never said that anywhere to my knowledge.  What I have said many many times is that I work on a daily basis with many professional hairdressers & beauty experts to get their input, suggestions and advice for the many hundreds of hair consumers that contact me. 

With that said.....whether hair is double processed or not, if it is color treated and the color is permanent, some chemicals were used to pop open the cuticle and allow the dyes to penetrate into your hair cuticle.  Unless you are using a temporary or demi-permanent color, your hair has been chemically treated.  And yes...double processing can potentially be more stressful to the hair because it involves first lifting the current haircolor and then redepositing new color.

Your question was whether it was a good idea to get chemical straightening done on your previously color hair or not.  You also mention you have really strong and thick hair that is frizzy at the bottom but that it is out of control and you are busy with college.

The answer is not cut and dried ...yes or no.  While the general rule of thumb from most hair experts is to NOT recommend doing multiple chemical treatments at the same time to hair (color + straightening or color + perm), some types of hair can withstand more intense chemical treatments than others.  However, it more the exception that the rule.

So the first thing I would suggest is that you find someone in your area that specializes in chemical straightening or chemical relaxing.  Then ask to book them/pay them for a consultation only.  Keep in mind that stylists and experts make their living by being paid for their time.  While some stylists and straightening experts will provide a complimentary initial consultation, they will then most likely have the expectation that the client will book services with them.

To make sure that you don't take their time for free and then decide not to use their service, pay for their time.  So if they charge $100/hour or whatever they charge, pay them for the time that you take.  After all, you are asking for their expert advice.  Also, make it clear that you will pay for their time AND that you may decide to pursue other options.  Setting clear expectations at the beginning will save you from doing a hair service that you are unsure of or wasting the time of the hair expert.

I personally always feel more relaxed when I am paying for a consultation.  Then I feel that I can ask as many questions as I need to and make sure I am very clear of the answers.  Since I am paying for the experts time, I feel fine taking as much time as I need because it is my nickel.

Many of the Thermal Reconditioning experts (also referred to Yuko or Liscio or many similar types of straightening treatments) will refuse to do straightening on hair that is previously coloring.  Or they may be unwilling to do the straightening on hair that has been colored w/in a certain timeframe.  Some straightening experts will do a special type of patch test on a small area of hair to determine if your hair can withstand the double processing. 

Reputable straightening experts that feel that your hair will become severely damaged will decline to provide the straightening services. Which is why a paid upfront consultation is such a great idea to protect your hair.

With everything in life as with hair there are choices & options.  So you need to ask yourself the following questions:

Do you prefer hair that is stick straight but super damaged or that may break off from chemical overprocessing?  Or can you live with hair that is not stick straight but healthy? 

Ultimately you have to live with the hair you wear so the choice is yours.  If you want chemical straightening done to your hair, whether it is a good candidate or not....and you want it badly enough, you can find someone that will agree to do it for you.  The results may not be good or great for your hair and worse case it could be fried, but ultimately it is your hair.

Bottom line you get to decide what is best.  I can't tell you what is best for you, nor even can a hair expert.  We can provide the pros and cons and any of the dangers but you have to be the one that decides what you are willing to live with long term.  If your hair gets fried, you are the one that will be dealing with the damage.

You asked what was the least damage in the long run?  The least damaging for any hair is to learn to love your hair texture that you were born with even if it is temporarily out of control. Give your hair, if you can do it, a rest from damaging chemicals and heat styling products like hot irons which do take their toil.  I get so many AskKaren emails every day from people with fried hair.  That seems to be the biggest consumer hair problem right now.  Unfortunately, once hair is totally fried you can have the fried parts cut off and condition, condition and condition and wait for your hair to grow back.

Although ceramic, teflon and glass irons like the new versions that Conair and Remington make are much better than the old traditional irons, using them on a daily or even every other day will over time take a toll on even the healthiest hair.  This is because the heat will impact the health of the cuticles.

Finally..........Some options for you:

1.  Find a really good hairdresser that you feel comfortable trusting and pay for a consultation.
2.  During the consultation, discuss the pros/cons with the hairdresser who can examine your hair and make an informed recommendation to your current condition as a result of the color and whether you are a good candidate for more chemicals.
3.  Discuss the options for bypassing chemicals and going with a custom cut that will remove the frizz at the ends, remove some of the thickness or bulk that makes you feel your hair is uncontrollable and that gives you the option to wash and wear w/minimal use of straightening irons. 
4.  If you do decide to go with a straightening iron, go with one of the new glass irons like Conair or Remington make that are designed to be the best for hair and let your mom pick up the tab for your birthday.  :-) Take your time and find a good one that will be the least damaing for your hair.  Too many people rush this step and regret it later.
5.  Evaluate the hair care products that you currently use on your hair.  Do they address your hair needs, especially since you do one step color and may be wanting to straighen in some manner?
6.  Look at cute styles like multi ponies and quick twists that will give your hair some rest inbetween shampoo days that will give you more control of your strands w/out drastic measures.  What about scrunching?  What about using cute hair accessories like the new bandeau headbands or skinny skinny headbands to help control your tresses when you run out the door for classes.  Hair accessories were invented to help busy people control their strands quickly and still look hot.
7.  Keep searching.  It is excellent that you are taking the time upfront before you act to ask questions, look for answers and think about the long term impact.  I commend you for that.  I only wish all hair consumers would take the time to think about how their hair would potentially respond to chemical treatments.
8.  Be patient.  The world is a crazy busy place and while many people want to take the time to help, they have their own stuff happening.  So be patient about finding the "right hairdresser" to help you and consider the fact that you want someone that will take the time to answer all of your questions.  The right hairdresser is so important to have and can be priceless for the long term health of your strands. Also...ask others for help - as you did here at HairTalk & get other opinions from people that have had similar treatments. 

While this is a very longggggggggggg post, I hope that it has given you lots to think about and ways to help your take care of your hair in a healthy way for the longterm.  Have a great birthday, take care and come back and visit us often.

Best wishes,
Karen Shelton

Edited by Karen Shelton