To William : Trimming Layering

> I have read your responses to Jade's problem about> trimming her split ends. Especially the part about> trimming layers. :> I have layered hair too and am keen to trim them but> this would sacrifice my length which I don't want.> Although I don't have splits, the layers are pretty> dry and curl up although I have wavy hair, courtesy of> hairstylists who can never tell whether their clients'> hair is suited to layering. Anyway, you said to cut> those layers regardless of their length, if this is so> then wouldn't there be two-levels of hair, the trimmed> layers and the longer lengths below?> Could you please explain in detail how I could modify> the trimming so that I can trim the back and side> layers myself, as I don't have a good stylist to do it> for me. Thanks very much.Re: Step-by-step instructions for trimming layers etc. Christine, Go back and re-read my response and (I also took it for granted that you and other readers knew about hi-lighting"thin-narrow partings). MY apologies to all I did not mean to confuse anyone, so here goes to straighten out what I took for granted that confused you. To do the trimming yourself, lets make sure that everyone understands the "language" that we are speaking! "Thin partings" are approx. 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide and should be the length that you can comfortably hold "control" between your index and middle fingers, when pulled straight out from the scalp. Example; hair from the side of your head should be parted top to bottom direction, (this is what I will refer to as a vertical parting.) Horizontal partings go sideways as in "left to right". Just because you have layers does not make any difference in the amount of hair that you are going to cut. To washed/conditioned hair, Use a wide tooth comb and part through the center of your ear from one side to the other side, and clip all of the hair from the back half of your head like in a pony tail pulled to the back of your head. Part the hair on the sides of your head in 2 inch wide areas and from your hairline to the level of your temple, vertically back to the center "ear to ear" part we made previously. use as many partings/pins as ness to get your hair seperated into small easy to work with sections as needed, depending on the thickness/length of your hair. Take the top-front(crown and bang areas) and part them left to right across your head, and pin them out of the way. Release one section at your temple area and comb through to the shortest length that is visible and hold between your index and middle fingers, hold straight out from your temples and snip with just the points of your scissors off the amount that you want trimmed, from the ends of the shortest hair that you are holding, this done, slide your fingers down towards the ends until you come to the next shortest lengths (layers) and snip only them, and continue until you have reached the ends. Remember, snip only what you want cut and YOU are in control, it is far better to have to trim your hair more than once than to get carried away and start chopping. Once a section is done move to the next section and repeat, until all sections are cut. Try to visulize your hair spread out and pulled straight out from your head much as a Japanese fan is when unfolded and spread out. This is what you should see when you are getting ready to cut. The top hair should be held straight up and trimmed. The hair at the back of your head is pulled straight up and forward to achieve this, REMEMBER this is tedious and if you get tired , do only the sides now and the other sections as you feel like it. Do not cut your hair when you are not rested and never, never cut your hair when upset about someone or something. Your emotions will change a lot faster than your hair will grow back. If you have someone helping you, MAKE THEM SHOW YOU how much they are cutting to make sure they are doing what you want! As to your layers and natural curly hair, when hair that is long is layered, the layering removes WEIGHT from the hair shaft which had previously been pulling the hair straighter than what it wants to be in its "natural state". You can always tell hair like this if it want to curl up on its own at the ends and the mid lengths have a very slight bend or wave and the crown or top is almost straight because of the "weight of the length", pulling down on it. Good luck/william

> This describes my hair perfectly!! The length is about> mid-back. It is cut straight across...for the longest> time, it has only been trimmed. I'm ready for a new> do, but I don't want to go too short. Someone has> recommended that layering my hair would be good. What> do you recommend?? I've only read these 2 messages,> but you sound knowledgeable about hair, so could you> please give me your opinion? Thanx!To Ruth Ann about layers and long hair: Your haircut description describes many girls: " cut straight across and send 'em out the door" cuts that many stylists do because of what either clients "scissor phobia" (in many cases, caused by bad haircut stories, etc.) or by the lack of skill and or confidence of most stylists when dealing with long hair. Many stylists get very "scissor happy" when a long haired client sits in their chair and they have a very strong compulsion to perform a "miracle makeover" when the client understands neither the technical terms or the ramifications of what the stylists description of what they are proposing or what they are in the process of doing during the cutting process. Many a client sits meekly and mutters that they want layers, graduations or other technical terms without understanding or being accurate in their descriptions and then winds up with a haircut disaster and goes home in tears. As to your question, I need a detailed description of your hair as to texture, thickness, whether or not chemical processes have been used on it etc to properly answer you. Please see my response to Lisa above about the body perm, for what I am asking for. A few general things about layers are: on very thick medium to coarse healthy hair, they can either remove midlength bulk and weight and add a lot of visual movement and texture or when the ends are barely layered they can cause a very soft feminine line to appear, hiding an almost " straight across" cut's harsh ridgid outline. On long, thinner, hair they can add the illusion of "more hair" in certain instances. On a very thick head of hair that is all one length before, short layers on top and progressivly longer layers will give a visual "explosion" of more bulk and body throughout the style. Layers can be used in many ways to do many things different depending on how they are used. YOUR description of what you are looking for sounds like you are wanting a change without a "major change" and are getting bored with your present look. Send me the info and I will gladly try to help. william

> Ok, my hair is fine, and it's NOT thick, it must be> medium or thin: I think leaning more towards thin.> Nothing's ever been done to it like chemical stuff or> henna, etc.> I want a change, because my hair isn't doing much of> anything right now =( But I don't know what kind of> change. I think the reason that I don't want anything> short is cuz I don't want to look awful and not be> able to change it for months on end... but ya, "a> change without a major change" sounds about> right! Thanx for your help.> Ruth AnnTO RUTH ANN; An idea about a new look: After recieving your description of your hair it sounds like it is thin as to thickness and pretty straight. Probably, if I were talking to you in person what you really are trying to "say " is that you would like to have a little different shape to your hair without sacrificing all the length with the illusion of thicker more volumnious look? The problem with thin, straight hair is that it is lacking in volume because of the lack of "physical bulk". This makes it look even thinner "stringy straggly" looking when compared with a thick healthy head of hair. To overcome this, there are a few visual tricks you can do to make your hair appear much fuller and volumnious. Normally, the shorter that thin hair is, the better as far as projecting a thicker look. But, don't despair and listen to this; I don't know if you have ever had a perm before, don't run scared! A perm done on thin hair on purple and white rods piggy-back style is just what the doctor ordered! Roll the white rod only on about the first 4-5 inches of hair next to the scalp and the remainder of the hair on the purple rod in a straight back croquinole pattern on the bang(front top,) crown and back areas, roll the sides at a 45 degree angle on the sides toward the back still all rods in a piggy-back style. What this does is the thin hair does not normally "take" a perm as good as medium to coarse texture hair. This is why the rods are sized as such, also the retention of the curl will normally relax a little more in thin hair sooner. When you perm your hair it will "draw up the length" a couple of inches giving you the illusion of having had a hair cut of approx 2 inches. After the perm trim approx 1 inch of the length and have the "corners" cut with about a 2 inch radius rounding and softening the "cut straight across" shape of the outline of the back. Then cut in a VERY FEW long layers starting about 2 inches below the top of your shoulders. These should be cut in a very cautious minimal "slide cutting" manner with scissors, continuing down to the length of your hair. This will "release" the hair to expand outward and it will project the "vision" of more volume and bulk while not having a "straight across" cut line defining the "ends" of thin fine hair, but a softly, feminine, curved, outline of your new style. Depending on your facial shape etc you may want to cut in some soft layers around your bangs (if you wear bangs) or you may want to consider adding them. No matter, be sure that the stylist rolls any 'bang hair" toward the back of your head and not forward during the perm. Go very cautiously in the layering process, because of the thiness of your hair if you get carried away with layering in the crown and front areas, by the time the stylist gets to the back there may simply not be any hair left to layer, and the only thing you can do is wind up with a not so long shaggy look. If you have ever wanted to do something with a color change (a suttle one is best to start with), try Redken Shades (it can be done immediatly after the perm with no problems). Shades will help your hair look thicker and glossier, with great condition. I also reccomend the use of Redken Vector Plus perms, they can be shampooed immediatly after neutralizing and before the shades application and have no "after perm stink, and leave the hair in wonderful condition when used with Redken Perm LocK. If your stylist follows these instructions you will wind up with a very soft, feminine, new look about you that you may enjoy for months to come! By the way the Vector Plus perm is so gentle that when your hair grows out in the future (and you see what a difference that it makes, 'no more flat hair!" you can reperm just the roots or all of it with no fear, just keep it trimmed every 4-6 weeks and use a good conditioner. Styling is a snap in the mornings, shampoo, lightly condition and use a light hold spray gel, bend from the waist and run your fingers through your hair and flip your head back, scruching the crown a little for more body if you desire. Good luck and email me if you need any more help.william

> Actually, william, I know that my hair is definitely> NOT straight. I think that I look better with> volumnious hair yes, and I think I'm probably willing> to cut my hair so that it's at my shoulders. Thin,> fine hair sounds like mine. But it's sort of frizzy,> yet curly, (some tight curls by my ears, and some> looser curls) and my hair curls at the bottom, and> it's flat/straight on the top, like you were talking> about earlier. When I was younger it was curlier, but> I've brushed it for quite a few years, (I've stopped> now) so that's why my hair isn't as curly now. Could> you give me an idea for a new do for curly hair?> Thanx!TO Ruth Ann your curly hair; As you said, your hair is mostly straight on the crown of your head. This is due to the 'weight' of your long hair pulling down on the rest of your hair. At this point you are going to have to make a few decisions as to what direction you are going to go with your hair. You could cut it to the top of your shoulders into a long 'bob' and work with your natural curl, scrunching it while wet with a little light hold gel, particulary scrunching the crown to encourage your curl. This style works well for a lot of people that are career minded. It is easy to do/take care of. However it does not give a whole lot of styling options. If you prefer to keep your hair long, the perm I described could also be done on a combination of purple and peach colored rods (this is the next size larger) for a softer curl, with the perm, it will "reform" your unruly curls into a more stable wave consistantly all over your head. Hair such as yours with multiple textures is not rare but, sometimes hard to work with when perming or coloring. A "test curl" MUST absolutly be done at the crown, temple andlower back (nape) area to be sure that your hair is in good enough shape and will properly accept (take) the new shape. The perm if done correctly will reform your hair into a uniformly soft curl, that can be managed much better. If your hair has the frizzies naturally it will be ness. to use a gel or other styling aid to keep them 'calmed down'. Remember, if yougo for the perm route, your hair will require a little extra care and it has to be done piggyback to be uniform. goodluck william.

> I have long permed red hair with layers. My perm has> diminished at my roots. I'm wearing a silver long> dress which is a halter. I also have bangs. I was> wondering if anyone had some suggestions for up do's> as well as any other dramatic or sexy style's. I was> considering straitening my hair then what do i do with> my layers? Please my formal is in two weeks with> another formal occasion the next week, so please help> senior knock those boys dead!(i'm new at this school> so, I want to catch some attention)Thank you !TO SARAH; Re your updo; I don't know how long, thick, or curly your hair is , but if it is long enough and you or your stylist or friends are adept at french braids, you might try this idea. Try an inverted french braid (one that starts at the nape of your neck), start with clean. conditioned hair that is barely damp, braid up to the front of the crown using a light hold gel or styling whip. The last area between the front crown and rear of the bang area can be incorporated into the last of the braid, but pull enough length to reach the bottom of your ears or longer if desired, out of the braid and pin underneath, forward of the braid, curling them if ness with a curling iron into soft hanging side curls at the temple/ear area. Split the bangs randomly, curling them backwards to help hide the last braid and tuck the ends of the braid under the pinned longer hair that forms the soft 'hang down' curls. Pull a light amount of the bangs onto the forehead and lightly side-sweep them. This will probably take a little practice for you so start now and you can be very good by the time of the big day. Try to tuck any loose layers underneath the individual braids and secure with a dab of gel. TIP- when doing french braids always use a little light hold gel or other styling product to help smooth the outside for a more finished look and when pulling the hair into the braid, twist or "roll" the hair about a quarter turn toward the braid which will give more definition and sculptured looks to the style. good luck and take a club to beat the guys away! william ps as far as straightening goes I would rather see you think about re-perming the root area and keeping your curls(the perm is making a fashion comeback currently!)