Many people misunderstand Thermal Reconditioning/TR.

Many people misunderstand Thermal Reconditioning/TR.

The biggest problem with TR is going to be breakage from manipulation of the hair by stylists who think, “It looks easy”. Unlike other chemical hair services such as color, and highlights; chemical hair straightening/TR can cause you to get a chemical hair cut in the hands of an untrained stylist.

Lately I have been receiving many e-mails inquiring about a hair straightening product as being "the only relaxers made that is damage free”.

Regardless of what you hear or read on beauty forums, all chemical hair straightening/relaxer products can cause damage to the hair; including Vavoom by Matrix, Vertical by Redken, X-Tenso by L’Oreal Professional, Maintamer by ISO, Anti Curl by Rusk and all TR products. There are no exceptions.

The most common active ingredients used in chemical hair straighteners/relaxer products is: thioglycolate, cysteamine hydrochloride, sodium hydroxide, or guanidine hydroxide. Cysteamine straightens hair at a lower pH than thioglycolate, so it is considered somewhat milder. However, this does not mean that it is “damage free”.

Many stylists make the mistake of applying heat to accelerate the straightening process during the chemical hair straightening process. As a result, if the temperature gets above the normal requirement, steam will form inside the hair, causing the hair to fragment and burst. The naked eye cannot see this, what you’ll notice is hair breakage. Suffice to say, thioglycolate is the # one choice with stylists who specialize in chemical hair straightening and Thermal Reconditioning/TR

Perhaps a little explanation would help:

To alter the shape memory of the hair (to chemically straighten the hair/TR) from curly to straight_ permanently, we must first apply a chemical hair straightener. For example, if the diameter of your hair is presumably 70 microns before TR, the hair will swell up to approximately 80 to 85 microns. Hence, the cuticles are raised (lift open); this is to allow the chemicals to deep penetrate into the cortex and break the cystine/disulfide bond.

Once this is accomplished, the broken cystine bonds will be re-connected to up about 90% by the neutralizer (oxidation). The remaining 10% is reconnected by the air. But just like a cut on the skin; there is no instant way of healing a cut; it takes 2 to 3 days to heal! Same with the hair; it takes two to three days for the hair: 1) to constrict 2) the cuticle to close, thus, allowing the hair to go back to its original diameter; which is 70 microns.

Most people are told not to shampoo or wet the hair for 24 to 72 hours after the TR service. This is true. Nonetheless, giving the hair time to heal is as important and should be the main priority. Unfortunately most stylists accidentally forget to mention this to their clients.

Also, even though the TR has been finished and you had left the salon, the chemical reaction is sill going in hair, and the hair becomes very vulnerable; making it susceptible for damage/breakage. Many people can avoid this from happening by simply handling the hair very gently (no pulling, no tugging, no wrestling) during the first 3 days. Thereafter, for the following 4 days after the hair straightening/TR service.

It is also important to use acid balanced shampoo/conditioner/treatment products after TR. This will protect the hair from the elements and brings the hair into its natural pH environment.

Hair straightening/TR is not a bad thing. When properly applied to hair that is in good condition, these scientifically formulated straighteners can safely and successfully remove as much or as little curl as desired.

I work out of Toronto, and I know that the cost of the service is an important factor; nonetheless, this should not be your main priority. Chemical hair straightening/TR is a great service, but in the hands of an untrained stylist it can become a disaster, and you may regret the outcome.

It is clear that manufacturers are not doing a good job in teaching and training the TR process. In TR, “apply, hope and pray it turns out okay”, does not work! Make sure that you feel very comfortable with the stylist's ability. Otherwise, don't do it!

It is also good to first visit my Website. http://www.verticalsinhair.com ...then take a moment and think… ascertain of what you’d like your hair to be like…dream a little…then let a hair straightening technician take you there.

Remember, our skin re-generates but our hair does not re-generate because it is composed of dead cells. Therefore, once the hair has been disrupted it is very difficult to re-build this fiber. In most cases there is nothing you can do to repair it except cutting it off. PPT, Silk proteins, ceramide, hyaluronic acid, keratin, collagen, chitosan or any other fancy ingredient is futile! It just “won’t do it”!

Finally, I think the beauty/salon/talk forum of the “new millennia 2004” should have a separate forum dedicated for people to ask specific questions directed to “Professionals only”. This way the clients can be better served. This will also put the onus solely on our giving and/or misgivings.

They say: “Great minds think alike – Genius minds think independently”. I think http://www.eboards4all.com/664208/index.html had already initiated this great “Ask the Professional” concept. Way to go!

Steve Tcherkezian

www.verticalsinhair.com