TR Consultation. Step #1: part 2 of 2

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   Step #1: TR Consultation part 2 of 2.

TR consultation is a total procedure that involves conveying to clients that the stylist performing the TR process is an expert, making the necessary examinations and tests, determining the hair�s structural competency, educating the client, recommending the proper reconditioning treatment, carrying it out, showing the client the improvement, and pleasing the client with continual and positive results.

There are a number of detailed steps that are to be followed to ensure that the client receives the full range. 

To visually examine and testing the mechanical strength of the hair fiber and make any necessary preliminary evaluation, taking hair tests is extremely important in the overall results. The hair tests taken must be representative of the entire head of hair.

HAIR SAMPLES

1. It is necessary to test the hairs from each area of the head (left, right, crown. nape). Additional tests should be taken from any problem areas.

2. Tests should never be taken from an area which will be cut or trimmed, no matter how damaged the hair may be. In such a case, the TR stylist would be analyzing damage that no longer remains a problem to the overall condition of your hair, thus receiving useless results.

3. If you have a problem area where a) Color fades more rapidly? b) Areas that do not hold a set or style. c) Areas that are unmanageable or reveal breakage. Always ask for extra hair tests from any problem areas which you may complain of. Generally speaking, where there are problems of this nature, the condition of the hair is very much in question.

4. Is your TR stylist taking representative samples? Always keep in mind that the TR stylist is selecting a very small group of hairs to represent a very large group of hairs, and for all results to be valid, the hair test must be representative. 
Some of the important questions your TR stylist should ask before you proceed with the TR service. 
Do you take medications? If so, type of medication taken.

Was medication removal formula used? If so, how long before the TR process. 
Are you pregnant?

Termination date of last pregnancy.

Nails: healthy - dry - splitting � soft. 

General health: above average - average - below average - poor.

Hair condition: Breaking � oily � dry.

Hair distribution: Thick � thin � falling.

Do you swim in chlorinated swimming pools? 

Is your hair Henna treated? If so, last given.

Hair coloring: Tinted � highlighted.

Is your hair chemically Straightened? If so, what is the active ingredient used. Last given.

Hair TRd? If so, last given. Did it last?

How long was step #1 rinsed?

How long step #1 reforming solution processed?

Was there noticeable scalp or skin irritation? 

How long was step #2, the neutralizing solution rinsed?

HAIR ANALYSIS IS A STEP BY STEP PROOCESS.

POROSITY TEST: Porosity refers to the ability of hair to absorb the chemical solution. Hence, over-process/under-process. The processing time for any chemical/TR service depends much more on hair porosity than on any other factor. The more porous the hair, the less processing time it takes, and a milder solution is required. Hair porosity is affected by excessive exposure to mechanical abuse such as blow-dryers, hot irons, sun, chlorine and continued use of harsh shampoos, colors, highlights and straighteners/relaxers. Hair that�s over-porous should NOT receive a chemical straightening/TR treatment until the hair has been reconditioned, or removed by cutting.

ELASTICITY TEST: Elasticity refers to the ability of the hair to stretch beyond its normal length and then spring back. Normal hair when wet can be stretched to about 40 to 50% of its normal length and return. Dry hair is not so elastic, it will stretch about 20 percent of its length and return to its normal position. When elasticity damage occurs, the cortex have been seriously disrupted or even destroyed.

Hair will change its elasticity from time to time. Usually, porous hair loses its elasticity faster than non-porous hair. This change may be temporary due to humidity and temperature, the type of shampoo used, the amount of hair spray/gels used, and drying action of wind and sun. 

SIGNS OF POOR ELASTICITY: When the hair is wet it feels spongy, limp, tangles easily and stretches excessively without returning to its normal position. The most common cause of this serious condition is chemical services such as color, highlight, permanent straightening/TR either given improperly or too often, or both. Elasticity damage can also be caused by brushing wet hair�stretching the hair beyond its limit. The elasticity qualities of hair will determine the rate of success in permanent hair straightening/TR. 

YOUR TR STYLIST SHOULD DO THE FOLLOWING ELASTICITY TEST: Take a single dry hair and hold it between the thumb and forefinger of the other hand. Slowly stretch it between them. The further it can be stretched without breaking, the more elastic is the hair. If elasticity is good, the hair slowly contracts after stretching. Hair with poor elasticity will break quickly and easily when stretched. Note: DO NOT wet or shampoo the hair for at least 12 hours before running this test. 

YOUR TR SYLIST SHOULD DO THE FOLLOWING STRUCTURAL TEST to determine the condition of your hair: 

Select a strand of hair without stretching it from the side of your head above the ears (make sure it represents the general condition of your hair).

1. Hold it between the thumb and forefinger. With the thumbnail and index finger of the other hand, run the distance of hair rapidly as you would curl a ribbon with scissors. This will create a series of small curls. 

2. Then gently hold the hair straight for 10 seconds and release.

If the hair completely or almost completely returns to the curl pattern, it is in good condition. If it returns only 50% or less, the hair is structurally weak and will require reconditioning. �Under NO circumstances should TR be given when the hair is in this range. It needs proper hair care and a network of protein and moisturizing treatments to build strength and flexibility into hair to give it substance and resilience. 

Finally, to complete the consultation, the TR stylist will take two hairs from the head and wrap them around one finger, pulling them with the other hand to test the texture of the hair. If the hairs break, it is not strong enough for straightening service. If they don�t, the hair is durable and ready for TR service. We have to do it in different places, let�s say we have highlighted hair we have to do it here too the same way. 

IF DOABLE AND IF YOU DECIDE TO GO AHEAD WITH THE TR SERVICE, YOUR TR EXPERT TECHNOLOGIST/STYLIST WILL SEND YOU HOME WITH THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:

BEFORE TR: BOOKING A HAIR STRAIGHTENING/TR APPOINTMENT. Always remember not to shampoo hair 2 to 3 days before the hair straightening/TR appointment; the stimulating effect of shampooing could cause scalp irritation when the straightener is applied. Do not pre-condition the hair at least two days before the TR appointment, because the ingredients in some reconditioning products are oils which coat the hair and inhibit penetration of the TR solution, causing TR failure. Detangle your hair and leave it in its natural state. Do not swim during the 72 hours preceding the hair straightening/TR treatment, it could cause scalp irritation. Do not exercise 12 hours before the service. If you drink coffee before the service, make sure to drink lots of water.

Do not wear a tight cap, scarf or anything that �causes pressure� on the scalp 24 hours prior to the appointment. Do not wear a style that �creates tension� on the scalp or along the hairline such as ponytails and pullbacks. In each of these cases, the scalp would be more sensitive to the chemicals and liable to become irritated. On appointment day remove all neck jewelry and earrings. For more information see http://www.verticalsinhair.com/process.shtml

So that you know, TR is labour intensive, hence time consuming. The process may take anywhere from 4 to 7 hours with very little breaks in-between, and requires a lot of patience on your part.

Steve Tcherkezian
www.verticalsinhair.com 