QuoteReplyTopic: Light Ash Brown Posted: November 19 2007 at 5:21pm
I'd like to achieve a light ashy brown but not blonde. How light do I need to be in order to use a light ash brown? I know that I may need to prelighten my hair to either orange or gold stage before using light ash brown. I'm interested in trying Miss Clairol's Moonlit Brown, a lightest brown nonbrassy color, a level 5. It has blue-violet base. I want no warmth or brass but without greenish tinge often found in ash based dyes.
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My hair is dyed black but already faded to dark brown. So, I decided to go a light brown. I really like the look of Feria's B61 Downtown Brown, a cool brown without hint of warmth but not grayish green.
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I see 3 ways you can go about achieving this level 5 light cool brown on your naturally very dark brown hair:
Option one : 1) Bleach your hair to the orange gold stage 2) Use a neutral protein filler on your hair before you color to even out the porosity from the bleach and help color take evenly 3) Do a strand test. Adjust color mixture ratios if necessary. 4) Mix a neutral permanent level 6 brown color with a permanent level 6 ash brown color with a blue base for the roots in a one to one ratio (use 20 volume developer). Apply color mixture to the roots only. 5) Now mix 3 parts neutral with one part blue base color and apply to the rest of the hair.
You may have to play around with the color mixture to get just the right amount of ashiness/warmth. Don't skip the strand test.
Also, I wouldn't go with Miss Clairol products. I've tried moonlit brown and found it to be kind of muddy looking. I've tried a few other colors of theirs as well and have never been satisfied. I'd go with L'oreal preference or excellence or Wella color charms. Also, I don't think you need a violet base as violet cancels out yellow and you should only lighten to the orange stage. With violet, you are adding artificial red tones to your hair. I recommend using a level 6 even though you are trying to get to a level 5 because your hair will be porous after you bleach it, absorbing the color a little darker.
Option two: 1) Repeat steps 1-3 above 2) Use a semi-permanent color in a neutral dark blonde (level 7) and mix with an ash blonde level 7 semi-permanent with a blue not green base in a one to one ratio (demi-permanents are fine too).
If you decide to use the semi-permanent, it will actually be permanent on your hair since your hair will be very porous. You will not get the problem of hot roots that you get with permanents either so you won't need to worry about applying an ashier color to the roots. I suggest using level 7 because it will show up a lot darker on your hair since it is going to be porous from the bleach. Don't skip the strand test on a hidden under portion of your hair. This is crucial.
Option 3: 1) Use a color remover on your hair like Color Oops extra strength to remove the artificial color you've put into your hair (Be wary of other brands that remove your actual pigment, not just the artificial pigment) 2) Use a neutral protein filler 3) Use a high lift color from the drugstore (like Feria high lift browns).
With option 3, there should be less damage to your hair since you are not using bleach. If you are a true level 2, then you should be able to get to level 5 with high lift. Make sure to choose a cool color from a reputable brand like L'oreal and make sure it is meant for darker hair going lighter. You can find all the ingredients for option 3 at the drugstore including Color Oops. The downside is you can't control the color mixture at the roots and may end up with slightly warm roots. You also don't have complete color over how ashy/warm the shade will be overall since you can't adjust the color mixture.
I'd be curious to hear opinions from others as to the best way to go about it. So far, I think option 2 is the best.
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