"Pearl" vs. "Violet"

Hi Here is a good read for Goldwell... (previously posted)

Shades & Tones - Goldwell Master Palette of Color

Many people can have the same level of hair, without having the same haircolour. For example, one head of hair might be a natural level 6 with red highlights, and another may be a natural level 6 with no red or warm highlights. Goldwell uses a lettering system to determine the shades and tones found in the hair. The letter relates directly to the base color within the shade. These shades each have a special function, explained below.

N - Natural Tones - The base of the natural series is a natural brown made from a combination of yellow, red and blue at each level. Therefore the darker levels have more blue, and the lightest levels have less blue, causing yellow to be more dominant. However they still appear as lighter and darker browns. The natural tones fulfill a very special task; they give optimum grey coverage.

A - Ash Tones - The base of ash is blue. very few that their Blue is used to counteract orange. Alone, the ash tones will not cover grey, but they can be mixed with the natural series (N) for grey coverage. Whenever maximum control or orange is desired, the strength of a blue-based ash will counteract the orange, creating natural looking brown. The use of a blue base gives the best control of orange tones without producing an undesirable greenish cast, common with green or blue-green based ash tones.

NA- Natural Ash - These shades are a combination of the natural and ash tones. They are combined in an approximate 2 parts N to 1 part A series. The NA series cuts down on mixing and controls unwanted warmth, while covering up to 60% grey.

P - Pearl Tones - Pearl tones are a blue-violet based series. They are responsible for controlling the common problem of unwanted gold or brassiness in blonde hair. Gold is a tertiary color of a yellow-orange base. Yellow-Orange and Blue-Violet are directly opposite each other on the Color Wheel. This means they counteract each other, creating a natural, neutral or beige tone. The pearl series are used when lifting to Levels 8 - 10 to prevent color from being too warm.

NP - Natural Pearl - These are a combination of the N Series and P Series 2 parts N 1 part P. These shades cut down unwanted gold tones, while blending grey at lighter levels. The NP Shades are also useful for low-lights, or tint backs when the other controlling colors could be too mattening.

G - Gold Tones - The base of the Gold Series is Yellow-Orange. Gold tones will not optimally cover grey alone. The gold shades are fashion colors with iridescent tones of gold. They add brightness and vibrancy to almost any shade.

GB - Gold Beige - 2 parts Gold to 1 part Beige. Levels 9 & 10 GB are excellent for use as toners. The GB series provides a natural looking golden-blonde highlight. When lifting 2 or more levels and using the GB series the gold will become much more predominant.

B - Brown Tones - This is a brown based colour with more warmth than the N series and is more of a fashion brown than the natural tones. The brown tones typically are used to brighten up natural haircolour without a dramatic chance. These shades are brown with a minimal amount of red & gold added for shine. These brown tones should be mixed with the N series for optimal grey coverage.

K - Copper Tones - The base of copper is orange. They add rich auburn tone, to any base level. The K tones look natural, much like a natural redhead would look. The copper tones should be mixed with the N series for optimal grey coverage.

KG - Copper Gold tones are 2 parts copper 1 part gold. The KG tones are strong, exciting fashion tones which deliver vibrancy and brightness, The copper-gold tones should be mixed with the N Series for grey coverage.

RB- Red Brown tones 1 part red with 2 parts brown. It is ideal for adding reddish brown highlights to dull hair. The RB shades should be mixed with the N series for grey coverage.

R - Red Tones with a small amount of blue added to prevent the finished result from becoming too warm. The end result will be a rich, cool based red ideal for clients with olive skin tones.

V - Violet tones are violet based and an ideal toner after bleaching to control unwanted yellow. The violet tones should be mixed with natural tones for grey coverage