QuoteReplyTopic: High lift blonde vs. Bleaching, and vegetable dyes Posted: September 12 2008 at 9:59am
I've done LOTS of haircolor in my time, and dealt with almost every situation imaginable with color. But I think this time I need some advice from the professionals! I had a question for those who are experienced in using vegetable dyes (such as Special Effects) and bleaching/lightening hair. I have medium brown (level 3) hair naturally. My ends have the remnants of a past bleaching (to around a level 6 orange color) and on top of that is fading out Special Effects Cherry Bomb. I have about an inch of virgin roots. I want to dye my hair Special Effects Deep Purple, but I'm not sure how far to lift the color for the best result. I'm wondering if a bleach bath on the ends might be enough to lift them light enough and be gentler on the already bleached parts? The roots however I'm not sure how to deal with. If I knew how light I needed to go for the best results with the Deep Purple, then I could formulate a plan. Would a high lift blonde take the roots light enough to put the purple on? Or is it advisable to use bleach? I want the dye to be a true purple and not muddy or with a brown undertone. Will the purple cover orange or gold tones brought out by the lightening, or should I use a toner before using the Special Effects to tone down the brassiness?
I'm also wondering which process would be the least damaging to the hair, high lift blonde or bleaching.
(As a side note my hair is pretty short)
Thanks in advance for your advice!
Edited by earthymamawitch - September 12 2008 at 12:11pm
karen s
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First of all I am not an expert when it comes to using vegetable colours, but I personally prefer to use hi lift colours on my clients when I can, as I feel they are less damaging than bleach. However you can not always use the hi lifts on clients who have previous colour on the hair as tint wont lift tint (colour) also most hi lifts will only lift from up to a level 6 (dark blonde) and give you up to 4 shades of lift. I use Ion hi lift colours in the salon and they have a booster 000 series, which gives your hi lifts and extra 2 levels of lift, but only use 40 vol developer. Personally with working with Ion hi lifts for some time now , I just love the lifting capability the give you, with great results, another bonus is the come in 100ml tubes so cost effective, they are only available in Sally's beauty stores however.
As you have bands of different colours in your hair, you will need to use bleach. I am not sure if you are talking about colouring all your hair, or just parts of it, (really need a pic to see what your hair is now) but sounds to me that bleach is needed to lift out previous colour.
My advice for lifting your roots, only use 20 vol as it will lift pretty quick as its virgin hair, then use 30 vol on the middle and ends to lift enough pigment out the hair to a yellow tone the apply your colour.
I hope this helps answer some of your questions.
Karen.
karen sanderson
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I agree Ion Lifts nicely. Many other brands HL appear brassy for my hair. I have very 14K gold type with some strawberry bits :P.
I have found the Wella Blonde Plus @ Sally but not the 000 Booster (if you find a linky) I have been to the http://www.ioncolorbrilliance.com/Permanent_Hair_Color/Shades/ site & sally and if I remember the color smelled good. I didn't try the blonde plus with it (not sure if it is safe) but I did use 12.1 / 2x40 & 12.1 and 10G Complements 2x40 and suprisingly lifted to a cool champagne pearly ash. The swatch felt nice, smooth! not rough like Premium Creme. Clairol premium creme really seems to require it's own developer & the developer does not play nicely with other brands lol. PCreme doesn't mix well with Pure white developer (feels chalky fried).
I wonder if Complements Gel Lightener could be substitued for the booster (it is bleach however).
OT: odd note: Something is really odd about the HL Clairol Premium creme GN & G it repels or seperates the hair like two like magnets & puts an extremely glossy feel on it & looks very stiffy ( like it would smooth natural curl) It is pure shine however. Seems like it is coating the outside.
ON TOPIC... I agree w/Karen...I think a gentle bleach & 20 would give you the shade you need to get a vibrant non-muddy purple. Maybe test both methods on clippings of your hair to see & time each.
Edited by borne.blonde - September 12 2008 at 6:44pm
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Hi Karen. Does Sally Beauty Supply sell the boosters for the hi-lift blonde? I dont think I've ever seen that line of color there.
Thanks!
I live in the UK, and I get the Ion 000 booster along with the Ion hi lifts, so you should be able to buy them, if they stock the Ion colour series. The 000 booster can only be used with Ion hi lift colours.
Mixing ration is for example 25ml of hi lift colour plus 25ml of 000 booster, with 40 vol of developer @ 50ml.
Edited by karen s - September 13 2008 at 11:21am
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