to william

> Hello! I found it again. I have approx 30 addresses> sent to me by various friends and lost this site> twice!! That's great that you are particular about> your clientele. Do you work in a big shop? I work in a> small shop at my home so I can be there more for my> husband & kids. It's a beautiful shop and very> professional. I don't think I can charge as much> though, Because it's not in town. Can you please tell> me about those perms for long hair that look like a> beautiful natural curl, like a large spiral? What> rods? ProduTO KELLY: PERMING INFO, Kelly I'm always happy to share info with others, as to some of my perming techniques, try this one for thick healthy long hair. It works well on middle of the back or longer in particular. To achieve a soft, not kinky curl I use piggyback perming techniques extensively. However, I have developed my own version of how to do it. You can modify this formula for your own needs, but this has worked very well for me, and here it is , step by step. Shampoo with Redken Amino-Pon shampoo, and apply Redken Pre-Art clarifying treatment for 10 minutes, rinse thoroughly and block hair into sections. Wind the first 1/3rd of the length croquinole style, 1/2 on base. Use double end wraps and comb through very evenly each parting. Your parting should NOT BE any wider than the diameter of the rod, or longer than the overall length. (No matter what you have been taught)! Secure the rod with the rubber band on the FRONT side, not the top of the rod. Be very careful that you do not pull the hair too tight when placing the band on the front side but keep just enough tension to keep the rod from being able to flop around but not enough to cause breakage. This takes a little practice but it is well worth it. (I will explain a little later.) Take the remaining hair and comb through and start winding with a flat "spooling" of the hair onto the rod, gradually converting from a croquinole style flat wrapping technique to spiralling the hair onto and back and forth over the last third ,(the ends) until you reach the first rod. Secure the "piggyback" rod with the rubber band at the front again, and as low as possible without "stressing" the hair between the first and piggyback rod. If you have rolled the hair properly the hair that extends from the first to second rod will be on the extreme left end of the first and second "piggyback" rod. Secure the right end of the second rod to the right end of the first rod by using a small #12 rubber band placed outboard of the wound hair around the ends of both rods. Usually you have to double the rubber band to produce the right amount of tension to secure both rods together. This method eliminates excessive band tension across the hair that is wound on the rods, and positively secures the right end of the rod with the extra rubber band, the left end remember is secured with the "hair" that passes from the first to second rods. Wind all the hair on the head in this manner, directing the crown and back hair toward the back of the head, angle the sides toward the back on a 45 degree angle, and the bang area, either straight back or if side swept bangs are desired roll that area in the opposite direction that you want it to fall on about a 45 degree angle. This will take a long time to roll up, (about 3-4 hours) if the hair is very thick and long. The only hair that is not piggybacked is the short bang area. On long hair,use only just enough water to barely dampen while rolling the rods. I use Redken Vector Plus perms in a normal manner except that after rinsing the wave solution out, blot very thoroughly and apply PPT to each rod for a total of 5 minutes and blot again, then neutralize and rinse. 'also use Redken "Perm lock" per directions and you can shampoo immediately afterward, for no 'after perm' smell and the ppt strengthens the hair for even better condition. Trim the ends as ness, usually about 1 to 2 inches. Cut the back almost straight across with the corners rounded about in a 2 inch radius. This makes a very slight rounded shape. Cut this shape with the clients chin on her chest and when she raises her head to a "normal level position you will have a beautiful, softly rounded shape. After cutting, lightly condition, towel dry by bending from the waist, forward, 'patting and scrunching to encourage the new curl'. Use a light hold spray gel, and all the styling you should have to do is to detangle with your fingers while towel drying, flip your head upwards and all of the hair will fall into place. I normally will use purple rods for this style or if looser curls are desired, large orange rods, with the first rod a peach or beige color for a firmer curl next to the scalp. You can use any size down to white rods with this wrapping pattern. Vary the length of the "first third" that you wrap to the scalp by 1 inch longer and shorter to "break up" any possibility of a wrapping "line" showing in the finished style. The small rubber band that secures the right end of the rods is "cut" with your pointed end of your shears, as you unroll the hair after neutralizing. What the forward placement of the bands does is to promote a small 'wave' next to the scalp for more "root" support. As the hair grows out, this scalp wave, formed by the forward placement of the bands and rolling 1/2 on base will support the look of the style much longer and the weight of the long hair better, preventing a "flat hair look". The 'secret' of of this style is no secret, but a combination of techniques that counteracts the weight of longer hair styles and the combined winding of the hair in several ways, counteracts a "one way" wrap normally found in most perms, whether in a croquinole or spiral fashion. good luck william