QuoteReplyTopic: How Do I Highlight Asian Previously Highlighted Hair? Posted: February 21 2005 at 9:33am
Hi all. I'm new here. Posted this question at Ask Karen and it gave me a link to this forum. Pretty nice one too if you ask me.
I just currently finished my 9 month hairdressing class, and I pretty much understand the basics. I just need to get LOTS and LOTS of experience from now on.. before I pursue other advanced classes.
So, since my problem solving (creative thinking probably) isn't that developed yet, I ran into a coloring problem last week. My girlfriend (natural base around level 3/very dark brown) had her highlights done 3-4 months ago. I did the previous highlights too. It was easy then because she had virgin hair, so all I needed to do was weave, pre-lighten in foils and neutralise the yellowish tones with a purplish color the same level as her highlights (level 8-9). This caused the base color to also slightly lift (up to level 5) but at the same time it had a very nice ashy brown finishing tone. So now you have light ashy blonde highlights and a kinda funky ashy dark brown.
Come last week, she had a regrowth of 4-5 centimeters which were nearly black (level 3 natural base) and faded brown (level 5 base) with her yellowish highlights (level 8-9). She requested that I give her a 'brand-new' highlight look.
I was wondering what ways I could've done that, that would also be time-saving as I'm sure I'll run into this problem a lot in the future. Do I color the whole head and only then pre-lighten AND neutralise (which would cause the base color to look weird) or highlight in foils, and color the rest of the head while waiting for the foils processing time?
I don't think that the base would be balanced if she wants a fashion color base since some of the old hair is level 8, and the rest of the base is level 5. I'm confused! Help please. Thanks in advance!
Innamorata594
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first--this site only has a couple licensed pros on here, so dont expect "expert" answers ;) Anyway--I run into this problem alot with clients.Im semi-new to the industry as well, but Ive also been through this same problem with myself, too... Now if Im giving you my opinion... i wouldnt add foils, because Im assuming that since you got her highlights to lift that many levels before,then you must have used bleach..so you probably shouldnt recolor and then follow up with some foils or youll have breakage... If I were you, I would recolor her base to match her roots(or you could even deposit a darker color for a more drastic effect) ...Then take the remaining highlights that were already there, retouch up the roots and go over the whole strand with a new color...Maybe a honey/caramel color. So that it wont alter your base color--your going to want to weave in the highlights.... Make sure to be precise. Its going to be hard for you to completely change her base color and her lightened highlights unless you are going to make them darker...Making them lighter would demand complete reconstruction... (Im not recommending this, just sharing my personal experience) I had my hair bleached and toned, then recolored and foiled(with bleach, again!) in some more highlights and put a toner over them...Now--people will tell you that bleach is going to fry your hair, blah,blah,blah...And it may do that--but it depends on the condition it is already in...Mine is pretty strong so it didnt cause breakage...A split end here or there, nothing a trim didnt fix...When I was in cosmetology school, (as you have seen as well, im sure)--girls change their hair like a chameleon! They bleach, color, bleach, color so much! People on this site tend to think that bleaching will make your hair fall out, melt, and so forth)..but since youve already been through school--you know the proper protocol--and I dont have to tell you the effects that bleach can have..Obviously, bleaching is another option--if shes will to take the risk. You know her hair condition and hair type, so ill leave that decision to you.
Anyway--what colors is she going for? Have her figure out what colors she wants-does she want to go lighter or darker?-and if your not sure how to achieve the look you want with those colors, let me know and Ill help guide you through it.. you can also email me at Sara594@yahoo.com if you have any questions...
Sara
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She wanted to have more and brighter streaks (partially because she knew it'd be easier for me to think it out) so I ended up just weaving new hair, bleaching and colored the rest of the roots while waiting for the bleach to process in foils. Any visible previous highlighted hair was excluded. Of course it wasn't a 100% perfect job since I still need a lot of experience to be effective at this.
The result came out okay, the color wasn't orangey nor was it yellowish. It really came close to an ashy blonde, which is what everyone here has been wanting lately (to look old it seems).
The contrast between the previous and current highlights weren't that huge, and in the end gave more of a tortoise shell effect. I had to rush into this because I need the pictures taken and developed by this weekend for my City & Guilds practical exam. I just needed to show that I'm competent enough to perform a basic highlight (along with everything else in the syllabus).
Well thanks for your advice by the way, will keep that in mind. I called my teacher yesterday night and she said that it'd be tough getting really perfect results if she wanted 'new looking' highlights, so I guess all is good.
[EDIT] Oh yeah and by the way, don't worry about the bleaching, my circle of friends are fashion freaks. Can't do without obvious colors, which are only attainable by high lifts. My guy friend wanted his hair bleached 4 times before he was happy with the level. No hair breakage even.. asian power! Heh.[/EDIT]
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