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best way to layer extensions...

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Samantha~Jane View Drop Down
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    Posted: May 25 2005 at 2:01pm

What do you all do when it comes to layering your extensions? i mean so that there are alot of layers showing in the hair.

My last lot of extensions only lasted 2 weeks, i took them out because i hated the way my cousin cut the extensions after i inserted them, it looked really choppy and showed the "strands" so that it looked really piecey.

Is it best to cut the hair BEFORE inserting? what do you all think?

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mochachip View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mochachip Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2005 at 2:07pm
Ahhh the Kalika prelayer

yeah I really like prelayering the tips.  there are many a possible tenque for this.  Additionally even if you cut afterwards and like those layers you need to razor the ends because natural hair does not all chop off at one spot.

okay so here's what I like.  first you Kalika: make a pretip and cut 1/3 to 1/2 of it shorter than the rest by 1/4 to 1/3 the total length.

then get your razor or your thinning shears and razor up both the short and the long piece.

of course I'm wearing wefts right now.  They aren't super square ont he ends but I did run a razor over them anyhow before they went in. 

For my streaks that needed to be heavily layered after install I used my scissors cutting along the length of the hair scisoors going away from my head.  then trimmed to length.  then a touch more with the scissors.  I didn't know where I'd put my razor and this got the job done easily enough for 17 streaks.
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zapevaj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zapevaj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2005 at 2:21pm
I have one of these: razor comb

It's really useful for doing your own trimming. On other people I can use scissors or a razor, but not on myself- that little thingy makes it really easy.

I never cut the hair before installing, just because sometimes it comes out layered by itself (due to putting the same length of hair all over the head). But I know other people have success with it..

-Rae


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Syren123 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Syren123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2005 at 2:25pm
Where do you get a razorcomb? My mane is a bit thick in parts and could use some de-thatching.
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Scotchyroo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scotchyroo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2005 at 2:31pm

I think cutting before the install is dicey unless you are really sure what you want.

     I took this great class on asian hair.  The guy had a cool technique for making ends softer (or more western looking, or thinner).  I find it cool for synthetic ends.  I pick up two or three braids in the row fan the last 3 to 5 inches between my thumb and first finger then flick the razor  through the ends like I'm peeling a carrot.  Try it on some extra hair first, but this gives a nice natural finish to the bottom.

     As for layering, just make sure you let the natural hair drop out and start carving right where the person's hair ends.  I take 1 to 2 inch vertical sections when doing this.  

     I so need to learn to post pictures.  This is absurd. 

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Chris H. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris H. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2005 at 10:22pm
I have to say that I also have some problems with layering all the hair together. I read somewhere here before where someone said that they razored the HH and natural hair to blend and it ends up thinning the real hair of the clients!! Soooooo...... I'm still trying to learn how to layer w/o compromising their natural hair. Any suggestions????
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Chris H. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris H. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2005 at 10:35pm
Sherrie, do you have any suggestions for me??
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delin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote delin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2005 at 10:49pm
I buy straight edge blades in bulk because synthetic dulls them quickly.  I go piece by piece which is time consuming, but hey, when you're totally hair obsessed you don't mind.  I grab the end and let my own hair drop out of my fingers.  Then I do the carrot-peel thing mentioned above.  It gives a nice, natural look on the end.  I can't stress enough to make sure your blade is really sharp or it can tangle up the hair all the way to the attachment.  That's what works for me.
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sherrie215 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sherrie215 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2005 at 10:56pm

Quote As for layering, just make sure you let the natural hair drop out and start carving right where the person's hair ends.  I take 1 to 2 inch vertical sections when doing this.

I pretty much use this method that scotchyroo described most of the time.

I usually only layer the top few rows and its usually  enough layers to blend the natural hair together with the extensions. I also have to thin my own crown a bit some times to get rid of the poofyness on the top. As my own hair is 'poofy'er' than the extensions! (How about that word!)

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Chris H. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris H. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2005 at 11:01pm
Thanks, but what about when their natural length is about shoulder and they're going pretty damn long!!!
Do you try to pull all that hair up to kinda point cut into the layers, or just try to blend with the razor? Also, do you notice more split ends or frizziness b/c of the razoring????? Thanks so much!!!!!!
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Chris H. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris H. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2005 at 11:03pm
Damn this computer is so ##@!*% annoying!! I thought I just lost everything I just wrote! Ahhhhhh!
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Scotchyroo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scotchyroo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 26 2005 at 7:41am

I just want to add, that I think everybody starts obsessing about the cut or "finish" after one or two installs.

     I believe that's because any moron can install hair of one kind or another.  The trick is making it look good.  Cutting hair extensions is something nobody really teaches, I think... and it requires totally different methods to cutting hair on the head.  Mostly experience is the only way....

     In my experience, cutting extension hair with scissors is harder, but you definitely need a new razor blade for every hair cut or it jacks up the hair.

     Let's put it this way.  If there was a class that I knew would totally teach me to cut extensions to make them look the way the client wants... I'd get on a plane.

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mochachip View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mochachip Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 26 2005 at 8:23am
see I'd razor independant of blending(especially on synth) to make sure the hair doesn't look too blunt and therefore fake.

Scotchy is right.

Experience.  And not only that but experiment.  what works on one person/style will nto with another.  also what I can do with a pair of scisoors may be totally different than what you can do.  two people make get the same results with two different methods and not be capapble of the others method.

and the desired final look plays in a lot.
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