QuoteReplyTopic: Color Formulation ? For Claude and All Posted: March 24 2006 at 10:46am
Hi: I have found Claude's sticky post on haircoloring basics and all the other miscellaneous posts on the board very helpful in the past. I'd like to take what I've learned here and through my own experiences and try a new formulation on my hair. Here's my question...
I have what I believe is level 6 natural dark blonde hair. I would like to lift it to level 8 natural light blonde. I have previously used a Clairol 8 level color with a blue-violet undertone and 30% developer. However, it is still pulling a bit warm for my tastes. So I'm considering a switch to the Clairol Complements line to be able to add in a controlling color as indicated in Claude's post. (I'd love to use the Goldwell line, but I don't believe Sally's carries it). Here's my formulation idea...
Using a combination of 3/4 level 8 natural with a custom mixed (because the blue and violet intensifers are sold in separate tubes)25% of blue and violet intensifers.
What do you think? I'm trying to tone down the goldish tones that my hair seems to pull when I lighten even using a blue-violet based color. Should I consider using more blue in the custom mixed blue and violet intensifer mix to tone down the orange portion of the gold (gold being a mixture of orange and yellow)?
I welcome your thoughts! thanks, Maria
Claude
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have you previously colored the hair you are attempting to color? You know color doesn't lift artificial pigment from previous haircoloring.
OK unfortunately I'm only famaliar with professional color lines here and I know sometimes for the consumers they blur the lines of haircoloring with their terminology and I think that makes it more confusing than it actually is.
If you are coloring your hair from a Level 6 to a Level 8 assuming Clairol uses a US Level System 1-10...unlike Goldwell that uses a European System 2-10. The controlling color to a 8N should be a Pearl Series or blue violet base. I'm not sure what the blue violet intesifiers are but when you formulate a color you never want the controlling color to exceed more than 25% of your color formulation. For example if you are using 40 ML's or 30 Volume Developer and it's a 1:1 mixing ratio you would mix your color 30 ML's of 8N & 10 ML's of 8P to control that gold and unwanted warmth in your haircolor.
I would test that on a strand of hair....process it like normal then wash it out, blow it dry and observe the color to see if it's what you are looking for. It sounds like you are on the right track though.
G'luck
maria
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Hi Claude: Thanks for your reply. Yes, I've previously colored my hair. I am doing a root touchup. I currently have a blonde on blonde look, that is, a base color with a few added highlights for dimension. I highlight about every third root touchup (I tend to go five weeks between root touchups). I also am careful to only highlight the new growth.
Thanks for your advice on the mixture. I will definitely test strand. I thought of going to the complements line because it had the intensifiers which should allow me to develop a truly custom solution for my hair. In reading your sticky note, it seemed to me that I need a bit more of a control color (such as the pearl series) to control the slight warmth still arising even with the use of a blue-violet color base (Miss Clairol).
I'll let you know how if turns out.
maria
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Hi: An update...I used a product last night that I haven't seen discussed before on the board...red gold corrector.
I went to Sally's to buy the Clairol Complements products as described in my plan above. I talked with the manager about a desire to further tone down the yellow-gold tones arising in my hair from taking it to a level 8 (per my new knowledge from Claude's great post!). She suggested using a blue-violet base color from the Miss Clairol line (I have been using these colors) and adding some of a red-gold corrector. I bought a trial tube (it's displayed near the protein fillers) and did a strand test. Seemed good... So then I did a root touchup adding 10 drops per 1 ounce of color. The corrector is a REALLY deep bluish violet. So far I think it did the job in decreasing the warmth. It's hard to tell since I was only doing a root-touch up of about 1/4 - 1/3 inch of hair. I guess I'll really see next time I touch up and have two months of recolor to look at!
If I don't like it after that -- I think I'll move onto the Clairol Complements line with my own addition of blue and violet intensifiers -- but I fear that could be pretty complicated. That's why I tried an easier route this time! Maria
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