QuoteReplyTopic: **Update** Using Fabric Dyes on Human Hair Posted: July 11 2006 at 12:02pm
Ever since my Extensions Plus trip I've been curious.. Most of you know that most human hair manufacturers use fabric dyes to color the hair. What would nice to know is the actual process.. Maybe someone on this forum knows what the actual process is and would be willing to share the details of this process with the rest of the forum..
I've been doing some research on this topic, and I haven't been able to find any references on the web which talk about specifically dying human hair, but I have found lots of sites which discuss how to dye protein type fibers such as wool, cashmere, silk & animal hairs..
Acid dyes are concentrated, powdered, hot water dyes that produce the most vibrant possible results on protein fibers including silk, wool, cashmere, alpaca, feathers and most nylons. Although we sell other dyes that will color these fibers, Jacquard Acid Dyes are the best. Don't be alarmed by the name, the only acid involved is the vinegar that you add.
Jacquard Products Acid Dye Instructions
Provided courtesy of Jacquard Products
Don't let the name fool you... Acid Dyes do not contain acid or any other harmful chemicals. In fact, it has a neutral pH, like water. The only thing acidic is the white vinegar that you add. Jacquard Acid Dyes are the dye of choice for silk, wool, nylon, feathers or any protein (animal) fiber. for cotton or any other plant fibers use jacquard Procion MX Dyes.
Stove Top Method
Fill a metal pot with just enough hot or warm water for the fabric to swim freely, turn on the heat.
Add the dye powder to the pot and stir. Normally, in this procedure one would add 2 to 4% of the dry weight of the fabric in dye powder. For example, if you are dying 1 lb. (16 oz.) of fabric, use 1/3 to 2/3 of an ounce of dye.
Add the fabric to the dye pot. Raise the temperature to 180°F to boiling (feathers need a minimum temp of 170°).
Add 1/4 cup of vinegar.
Maintain temperature and stir occasionally for 1/2 hour.
Wash in soap and warm water.
The final color depends on the time in the dye bath, concentration of the dye and temperature of the dye bath.
The process seems the same regardless of what brand dye is used (RIT, Jacquard, etc). The acid dye method is the correct method to use when dying protein based fibers. Human hair would fall into this same category, and I wonder if the processes used to dye protein fiber fabrics could be used for human hair.. Of course we would need to know if the processes used to lift color from darker hairs is different when using fabric dyes to deposit color...
Edited by Divavocals - July 14 2006 at 9:09pm
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Yes, animal hair is essentially the same as human hair, so it would work.
Would the process work with any english brands, dylon perhaps? I've got a tonne of blonde here i'd love to try and permenantly dye pink instead of the semi permenant stuff.
Yes, animal hair is essentially the same as human hair, so it would work.
Would the process work with any english brands, dylon perhaps? I've got a tonne of blonde here i'd love to try and permenantly dye pink instead of the semi permenant stuff.
I've been doing a LOT of reading on acid dying the last coupla days.. and every single dye manufacturer uses the same process for acid dying.. So my guess would be yes girl.. You should be able to make some WICKED pink hair!!! If you do try this PLEASE let us know how it works for you.. I'm gonna request a couple blonde samples from a few vendors so I can use them for testing... I wouldn't dream of tryin' this on my usual lab rat hair (some $9.99 stuff I got from Sally's years ago..)
Edited by Divavocals - July 11 2006 at 5:20pm
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Kate: I think salt is fine.. Most of the acid dying instructions I found used salt or vinegar.. Although vinegar seemed to be the most often ingredient used in these dye solutions.. Hang tight I wanna look for something I found. I believe it was a dye solution specifically using Dylon and vinegar..
Edited by Divavocals - July 11 2006 at 5:22pm
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Here are the instructions for dyeing protein fibers with Dylon. These are included in the box, but I reproduce them here (paraphrased) so you can see if this is the method for you. See the bottom for notes about our particular dye experience.
You will need the following supplies:
1 & 1/3 cup white vinegar.
Water.
A pot to soak your skeins in (since they will soak in water only, you may use a bowl that will be used for food in the future). You should never use dye in a pot or bowl that will be used for food afterwards.
A big pot to dye your skeins in.
Dylon.
Soak your skeins in a bowl of plain water, making sure to get them thoroughly soaked. Some dye manufacturers recommend adding a little dish soap or Orvus (horse shampoo) to your soak water to help 'wet' it (you know...to help it absorb the water...otherwise the skeins may simply float on the water). Dylon didn't recommend that, so I didn't do it - just wanted to see how it went if we did it 'by the book.' I did have to push them under the surface of the water and squeeze them to get the water into all parts of the skein. (Orvus is available at feed stores and larger vets as well as some equestrian stores on the web, but I have only found it in 8-lb jars. I bought one in 2001 and am still working my way through it.)
Meanwhile, while the skeins are soaking, mix your dye, 1.3 cups white vinegar, and enough water to cover the skeins, in your big dye pot. Make sure to stir it thoroughly so that there are no dry clumps of dye floating on the surface of the water. Another way to do this to make sure your dye clumps are all gone is to put the dye with a little water into a closed jar or bottle and shake it really vigorously, then add this to the water/vinegar in the dye pot.
When the skeins are thoroughly wet, put them in the dye bath. Make sure all parts of them are submerged unless you are going for a dyed-and-white look.
Let it sit for an hour. No cooking required!
This next bit I did entirely outside, since it was a nice day.
Take the skeins out of the pot, squeeze them out, drape them over a broomstick suspended between two lawn chairs. Use the garden hose to gently rinse them (from the top down) until the water runs clear. This should be a fairly quick process; most of the dye will have been absorbed into the skeins and not be left in the runoff water.
Squeeze each skein out (starting at the pole and going downward). Use your fingers to spread the strands of the skeins out along the broomstick so the air can circulate.
My yarn was dry in about 3 hours sitting in the warm Pacific sunshine.
Notes about this experience: first of all, the color I had around the house was not a good one to experiment with. It was called "Cafe au Lait." The finished skeins look like undyed brown cashmere. I would have liked something more vibrant to test the intensity, but didn't have time to go to the store for a different color.
Second of all, there are a few patches where the dye must not have been thoroughly mixed. I have a few patches of burgundy on these skeins (not enough to call it a 'design element' but too much to pass off as unnoticeable. This could happen in any situation where you are not using pure red, blue or yellow, because dye manufacturers simply mix the base primaries in powder form to result in all the other colors. So there will be (for example) blue and yellow powders mixed in a green dye, and you may end up with small patches of either blue or yellow when using that color dye. But thorough stirring should do it.
Lastly, there were a few places where the dye did not penetrate to the center of the skein and I have white patches. Again this is too noticeable to ignore, and again this was my fault for not wetting the skeins more thoroughly and spreading them out more in the dye bath.
All of these "problems" will be surmounted when I use this yarn and overdye with a red shade from Jacquard, which will eliminate the burgundy, cover up the white, and liven up the brown. There will still be a few unusual patches but in hats or scarves they may be relatively unnoticeable.
In summary I believe this would be a good method for dyeing, especially for newbies. You may want to purchase some cheap wool to practice on. Dylon is about $2.50 a packet.
Edited by Divavocals - July 11 2006 at 5:30pm
Check out the 5th So Cal offline luncheon?? For more info: divahairtalk.overthehillweb.com/lunch.html
Links to my fav vendors & hair albums + Weave 101 information: divahairtalk.overthehillweb.com
Thought I'd keep you ladies updated on this experiment from the BHM side of things.. I'll be playing with the Jacquard color remover to see how effective it is at removing color from human hair.. I've now got some virgin Russian hair to play with along with the virgin Indian hair.. (Thanks Gene!!! if you're still reading this forum.. doesn't match my hair my a$$!!!)
Check out the 5th So Cal offline luncheon?? For more info: divahairtalk.overthehillweb.com/lunch.html
Links to my fav vendors & hair albums + Weave 101 information: divahairtalk.overthehillweb.com
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