QuoteReplyTopic: Q's about Chemistry of Lift and Deposit Posted: June 28 2000 at 5:53pm
Hi;
I was born blonde and have been lightening my hair for 20 years (ever since I started dipping into my my Mom's kits in the 6th grade). I have used salon colorists but prefer doing my own. Problem is-- I pick up tidbits about the chemistry of it all-- but have never quite gotten a full picture.
For example-- I have always wondered if Lift is cumulative. In other words, if you apply 20 vol. developer to a strand for 20 minutes and then repeat with 20 vol again, for 20 more minutes (say, 2 weeks later)-- is that the same as using 40 vol for 20 minutes?
Also, if a color is designed to be applied for 20 minutes is part of that time spent lifting and part of spent depositing? So that if you put it on late you get less lift but all of the intended deposit, and if you take it off early you get all the lift but not all of the deposit?
Finally, let's say I have a Hi-Lift formula and some hair that has been lifted, but not far enough-- doesn't seem like I'd want to do all the damage that a Hi Volume developer could do-- should I use say, the 40 vol recommended but take it off sooner? Or should I mix the tone with a lower volume developer like a 20?
forest
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Joined: December 10 2000
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You have some good questions. #1 If you are using a hi-lift tint that calls for a 40 vol. developer it is best to use the 40 vol. and get the maximum amount of lift. If you use a 20 vol. developer you will only get 2 levels of lift. With 40 you should get 4 levels of lift. Another thing that happens when you use tint is that if you want to go back in after tinting and try to lift more "tint will not lift tint" and you will find just the opposite happening, more deposit.
#2 Once you have mixed your tint with your developer it starts a process called oxidyzing. This means that the peroxide is mixing with the color melanin in the tint bottle and starting to work. You should put that tint on immediately on your hair so that you get the maximum lifting that you are looking for. The longer you leave the tint in the bottle the tint molecules start to swell up and loose their potentcy. You need the tint molecules to get into the inner structure of your hair and swell there so that they stay in and not leak out. And yes if you take it off too soon you will not get the proper deposit.
#3 If you don't use the recommended volume for the hi lift tint you will not get the desired result. Once you see the hair changing to the level you want you can take off the tint. But I would not recommend using a lower vol. developer for hii-lifting.
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