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Need Help in coloring mixing/ratios...

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nina_ray View Drop Down
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    Posted: June 20 2007 at 11:23am
Hi, everyone i have few questions regarding hair coloring ratios/mixing.
 
My first question is i have natraully dark brown / black hair, and I'm thinking of getting subtle soft caramel/honey colored highlights. What would be the least damaging way to do this?
 
Anyway, I was thinking of mixing Goldwell Topchic 5NN with 40vol, to lift about 3-4 levles. Do you think this will work or should I use 5A- with an ash tone? Do you think 5 will be too dark or should i use a level 6 colorant?(if i was to foil them in is it true that you can't use ordinary kitchen foil because it will react with the chemical - unlike professional foils?)
 
I have another quesiton that's just out of curiosity.  Goldwell (and many others) have a colorant that just clear/gloss. If i was to use this what vol of developer should i use, does it need a developer? Since, it's clear does that mean there's no damage and no ammonia?
 
If you dont mind i have another question but it's regarding my friend. She has blonde hair (dyed with Goldwell) and her roots are coming in,  its about a med brownish color/dark brown would there be anyway to lighten it without using bleach? I was thinking maybe if she used a High-Lift tint like a level 11P with 30 vol on the roots? will this work or should she use 40 vol?
 
 
Thank you,
 
Nina
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lovetocolor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 20 2007 at 11:00pm
hi nina,
sounds to me like you are going to have to do a double process to achieve what you are wanting.  that is where they lighten the hair first (yes, w/bleach) then color gets deposited.  your friend could use a very high lift color instead of bleach.  hope all works out.
happy coloring
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Thank you, i really hate using bleach just cause of the damage it does. That's why i was thinking if used a single process color with 40vol that it should lift about 3-4 levels.  So, my friend doesn't have to use bleach on the roots? So she can use the high lift instead, that's great. I was worried it would go all orangy and stuff like most single process colors - but she never tried high lift color so i hope that works out.


For me and my black hair issue, do u think i have to bleach it to pale blond then dye caramel (i want it darkish caramel not blond caramel) or should i bleach it to a darker shade than pale blond? If i was to use bleach i was thinking of doing it in 2 steps using 30vol - 30 mins each until i get pale blond (do i have to lighten it up to pale blond even though i don't want my finished color to be light?)

Thanx again,

Nina
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lovetocolor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 21 2007 at 11:32am
hey nina....do not bleach to pale blonde...that is damaging to say the least w/your dark hair....you probably could medium orange then deposit...if it pulls too much red that too can be fixed.  listen, i had some science project going on in my bathroom about 2 months ago....i now have a friend's text book on coloring and have devoured the info.  let me know what you are doing and i will look in the book to help you...keep in contact.....i will tell you this, if you were going to be a pale blonde you would go to light yellow.....what is the level of your caramel, i will be able to help you better if i know the level you are taking your hair to....have a great day nina and be careful, at 2 am when the experiment went bad inhuman sounds were coming from my bathroom according to my husband.
happy coloring
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lovetocolor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 21 2007 at 11:36am
hey nina, i just reread your first entry...to go to a 6 level you by no means have to go past the orange shade then deposit....let me know what you are thinking about, and confirm level....will look in my book and see what it says after i hear back from you.
happy coloring
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nina_ray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 21 2007 at 2:34pm
Heya, Thankx for the reply. After reading your post I decided to bleach it for about 30 mins with 30vol to get an orange level. The color level i want is level 6 using Goldwell Topchic. The reason I say 6 and not 5 is because the Goldwell level system is too dark, so i thought level 6 would be just right with black hair to give it a subtle look. What do you think will this work ?
 
Also, If I don't use bleach and just immediately apply a Goldwell Topchic level 6 color do you think I will end up with orange hair or will it work and get soft dark caramel highlights? The reason I ask this, is beacuse if my hair level now is about (according to Goldwell) is about a 3-4 ish (since 2 is like super jet black) then lifting to a Goldwell level six using 40vol perocide should in theory work right?
 
Anyway, bleaching to the orange stage is ok with me since its not as damaging to dark hair as bleaching it to pale yellow.
 
 
Thank you again,
 
Nina
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I forgot to ask you something. Have you ever used one of those Clear / colorless permanent color? It's used for glazing and glossing - the only thing is i dont know whether or not to use a developer with it (since it's colorless and doesnt need any lift) - but if you do need a devloper what vol do you use - i was thinking maybe 20vol? Wat do you think?
 
Nina
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.....bump
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lovetocolor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 28 2007 at 9:09am
nina, sorry i haven't been on the computer...my mom is here for a visit...yes, i have some of the clear gloss...you do use a very low volume activator and it is supposed to be conditioning and does add shine if you get the right product....now, i use redken eq, but that is because i have a friend that is a cosmo and buys it for me.....matrix prisms is really not to good and i never had any luck w/clairol (oh, what is the name of that??)  well, they sell it at sallys....it did not work on my hair...now, let me see, what else....did you already do your hair??  if so, i am dying to know how it turned out for you...i hope great!!!!  i so feel for someone when things go haywire because i have been there....but what volume did you end up using?  40 is scary to me....i have used 30.....30 burned quite a bit....i have not ever used goldwell topchic.....how do you like it?  i know there is quite a bit of mixing with that line....when i go to cosmo school in dec, that is one of the colors that i will be learning with....wish i knew now so i would have more help to give you....let me know how it went!  loook forward to hearing from you nina....have a great day.Tongue
happy coloring
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Heya,

 
Thank you for replying.  Right now I haven't done anything to my hair. This is my plan so far.
 
Do a daily deep conditioner for 3 weeks.

Do a weekly protein treatment.
 
Then ill do what you said bleach with 30vol to the orange state then dye it using Goldwell 5nn (just subtle highlights) this will or should give me my desired color.
 
Then to seal it off I'm thinking of using Goldwell colorance (demi) clear gloss this should give my hair a fantastic shine (or so I'm told lol)
 
Then I was thinking using a 6 week protein treatment using aphogee  just to get my hair back to shape form all this chemicals.
 
 
What do you think? Does it sound sensible? LOL, well thank you for all your help my mind is no longer confused LOL.
 
 
I have used Goldwell Topchic before and it's great, but i used it on my friends hair. We used 10P with a hint of 10GB on her bleached pale hair . It was great it's like pearly ashy platinum blonde. The best thing about Golwell in my opinion is the ingredients, it so gentle it has silica and stuff which i love. And secondly it's very versatile, it's not your typical dye lol there's no rules to follow it's all up to the colorist technique and art background. If the colorist knows how to mix colors together to get a formula then you'll get a great result. Any who, enough me bothering you - overall its an awesome hair dye you don't have to mix and match though you can use the basic 1:1 color:developer.
 
 
Anyway, thank you so much
 
 
Cya again,
 
Nina
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lovetocolor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 28 2007 at 4:39pm
ooooooooooooo, that topchic sounds wonderful....wanna try it wannt try it.....my gosh, i am just hooked....your plan is great except for one thing....don't protein too much afterward because you can over proteinate the hair and could cause breakage....isn't that something??  was told by wes the cosmo about that, i didn't know that....other than that your plan sounds good....now, add some good thick conditioner to your bleach mixture.....trust me, that helps tons tons tons......i bet that blonde color was beautiful...my favorite thing is to turn people blonde....buttery, golden, silver....love it.....now are you just going to highlight your hair with this mixture?  doing the whole head?  fill me in...have to go fix dinner, don't like to cook and i married an eater...hows that?  he isn't fat but one day if he falls inactive, well, it won't be pretty....talk to you soon, i hope.
happy coloring
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LOL, wow i never thought about the protien thing ...I will deep condition without using protien then after all the coloring ill use aphogee that way im only doing one protien treatment (every six weeks). The conditioner bleach thing sounds great...what does it do? well it affect the color result. You are absolutely right the blonde dying process is amazing to do ..just the excitement too see what the end result be is just great espically the person whose getting blonde they always are like OMG OMG im BLONDE !! lol..

 
Ive tried many many pro dyes but Godwell always exceeds, ive tried Clairol, Wella Koleston, Loreal...etc been there done that. In my opinon i think ingredient wise Clairol is the HARSHEST both their OTC and pro dyes are just to harsh espically for ppl like me who get bored too quickly. Loreal is decent overall - but i feel its quite limited to choices i like to consider it the BASIC or amature when it comes to dyes (my opinon) ....i only use it when there's no way i can buy Goldwell. The second best is wella koleston but it's hard to find depends where you buy - it's very good traditional color and it's as versatile as Goldwell Topchic the only difference is Goldwell's gentleness and ingredients you'd think it's a demi and the ammonia "smell" is hardly noticable unlike all other dyes it actually has a somewhat attractive smell.
 
LOL - i never tried Goldwell Ellumen but i heard mixed reviews - so its not worth it. But Topchic is like great for anythign from toners to speical effects, lol anything. I think they make the best platinum blonde color tones....I heard (another forum) that Gwen Stefanni's signature platinum locks is thanks to Goldwell topchic (i dont know what color number/shade she uses ie 10P..etc). LOl so there you go.
 
Btw, just a money saver tip if your planning to experiment with Goldwell dont buy the tubes but instead buy 2-3 cans of different colors because they are bigger they last longer (you dont have to open the tube then throw it away ...this one is a can ...last fresher longer) this way too you can save money coz overall it's cheaper and it's great for mixing and alternating colors espcially for blonding it will create the feathery flowy look (cans are great for mixing formulas, when you dont have to use one entire tube, instead a little bit of many colors (of the same tone).
 
 
Anywho, i dont know why i ramble a lot lol once i type i cant stop ...soorryy
 
 
Thankx again,
 
Nina
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lovetocolor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 28 2007 at 10:15pm
listen, when it comes to haircolor i ramble too...facinating...i am a bit intimiadated by goldwell because of the mixing thing....there are things to add to cover gray and such and i have never been able to study how it works....want to and will if i get that scholarship to eric fisher academy....but eric fisher himself saw my hair this one time and asked me who colored your hair?  i said, "i did" and the proceeded to tell me that i am a natural and then i started the saga of how i didn't color my hair for 42 years and then i do, because i had a few gray hairs....if i had it to do all over again i would have just highlighted my hair....had great natural color....i guess i could send a pic of it....but right now, because of "the disaster"  i started using redken shades eq....have you read about that product?  wow, it is outstanding....it's a demi, colors all my grays, leaves incredible shine.....and the COLORS!!!  i got to go into peels (that is the state store where cosmos shop and you can't come in without a licence...amber and i, well ok, i came up with a little scheme to get me in there and it worked and i was in there twice.....but i had to pick out that shades eq.  plus the PRODUCTS!!  now what i do is research things and make a list and she gets them for me...i always buy her lunch and a product of her choice.....the prices are amazing, let me tell you....oh ya, i too have heard mixed reviews on the ellumen...i went to the sight and probably would have bought it had it not cost 40.00 per tube on e bay and i would have needed 2 plus the developer....i guess if you love it then you are all happy but if you don't like it, it is very very hard to remove....thanks for telling me about the wella...you know the first color i ever put on my hair a year ago last december (i was up in minnesota w/my best friend and we both did it, what a blast) the color was blonde bronze....then they changed the name to tan blonde....i decided to try auburn in wella, it was awful on me...waaaaaay too dark....now when i did the wella the first time i used a 10 volume, and that dakened my hair, well i thought i was stuck with this AWFUL on me anyway, auburn....i decided to try putting the tan blonde on and do you know it lifted and almost mached the swatch!!  and then when i redid roots and refreshed the rest of my hair (i think i left it on 20 minutes or so) it was lifted to the real color....the using of the 20 vol from the 10 vol was night and day....are you bored to tears yet?  i have read about the cans of goldwell...tried to get more info but i know there is alot of mixing involved in goldwell and i cannot get the info....did i tell you that goldwell is what i will be training with at school?  i guess i better call it a night....hectic day....you are doing right with your conditioning schedule.....ok, the last time before you are to color when washing the hair 2 days in advance (this is important) but use a clairifying shampoo then a REAL PROTEIN contitioner....it will help like you would not believe....oh, and the conditioner in the bleach just makes your hair feel so much better and i would think it would have to make it more gentle and you might have to leave it on just a tiny bit longer but i did that with the bleach and i was AMAZED!  oh and i agree w/you on the clairol....it is one of the oldest makers of dye and the harshest....i also heard wella color charm (what i used) was harsh....man, the ammonia smell did about choke me, and i am not kidding...i started coughing and hacking once.....oh well, one must start somewhere....when do you think the due date is on this color change?  and also, whole head or what with the color...talk to you soon...goodnight.
happy coloring
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nina_ray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 02 2007 at 7:30pm

OMG so sorry for the late reply, my internet was down (urgh technology is a pain).

The no1 thing i hate about coloring espeically professional coloring is the ammonia smell i remmebr years ago (dont laugh LOL) my cousin(dyed copper-ish natural brunette), anywho this was years ago we went to Akron, OH to visit an old family freind- anyway, her roots were coming in and they looked way to dark with her copperish blonde and she needed a fix me up so we went to local stored trying in desperation to find some kind of dye and we found one (pro one) but i dont know how old it was if it was expired or somehtign (i didnt buy it) only thingi know that the tube was red lol. Anyway i was helping her with her roots and the ammonia smell was redicoulisly strong - it was horrible and since then the no1 thing i lookfor when it ocmes to coloring is the ammonia smell
 
 - that's why i fell in love with the goldwell range. Its absolutely amazing its really is meant to be the top class when it comes to haircoloring. I would tell you, to go out and just try some coz u will luv it.
 
I know there isint to much info on it and that's because there's nothign to need to know...if you know how to use hair dye then thats all you need (btw im refering to Topchic not ellumne). However, saying this i have no clue watsoever regarding grey coverage and stuff so i dont wanna falsely recommend you to use it. But ingeneral it's awesome the ingredients, with silica, wheat protien it's truely amazing no wonder them celebs use it. I actually ran by this  goldwell program called Salon Pro by Goldwell it suppose to be used at goldwell classes it a computer program basically trying out different hairstyles and stuff i thought you might like it since it has all their hair color shades and stuff. never used it though.
 
Anywho, in nut shell try it on a firend if you like it try it with yourself the only thing i know about grey coverage when it comes to topchic is buy any color you want for exmaple you want a 7A color to do this you would fololw ofcourse the rule 1:1 which is color:developer. Then to make it more grey covering you would buy the color N (just N (neautral) ) and you mix it i think 1/4 OR 1/2:1:1, which is 1/2 N : 1 Color : 1 devloper.  It's really not at all as confusing as it sounds .. but that's what i think one would do for grey converage. OR you can go to sally and get one of those grey coverage add on tubes that you mix with the color to grab it aka cover the greys. So, either way dont take my word for it but this is what it hink would be best ofcourse you cans till jsut buy the color without mixing and just experiment (strand test) to see if it works without buying the extra N tube or the sally add on tube.
 
 
Sorry, for confusing you im the worst at explaining things.
 
Anywho, im going on vacatino on the 9th to Dubai for the sun LOL....so hopefully i would either do it while im there or before i go. I just want subtle thin few strands of higlights to give me the sun kissed glow aka 3-4 shades lighter then i would use the gloss to make it light reflective ... LOL it sounds so great ..hopefully it works out.
 
 
Thank you SOOOO MUCH for your help
 
Cya sooon,
 
Nina
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lovetocolor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 03 2007 at 12:48am
dubai??  oh that sounds fun.  i was real intimitated by the mixing of goldwell.....now i must try it...i will have to get it off the internet as they don't sell it at the professional peels store here...darn.  i have heard good things so must try it....i am not getting all my e mails from hairboutique...i found this response in the bulk mail....i never look at it but i just thought i would and found a few replies!!  i hope your hair turned out beautifully nina....happy vaca.
happy coloring
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Thanx, there are so many sites that sell goldwell just depends on prices - anywho, ill cya soon.
 

THanx again and keep in touch,
 
 
Nina
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