I had light yellowish hair & used 34D hazy mist in med blonde for a while. I thought it would cancel out all the yellow tones & it did, but i wasn't too fond of that color--too ashy. I used a 20 vol developer because i wanted less color deposit. I wanted that cool blonde, but I think it was too much. I switched to a neutral color base in light blonde and like it so much more! I used 10 vol dev. since it was a lighter shade
The good thing is the perm. color only lasted me about 2 wks before I needed another color.
it's hard to tell what the overall color will be from a strand test. but hopefully you will find what works.
yes, I'd definitely do it in steps so you can get an even color. I'd even break your roots up into steps because it can be time consuming ( like just do the front sections, then wash & do back sections etc). Some people use a bottle to apply, but I was always afraid of overlapping, so I use a smaller brush, like a toothbrush for my roots! it takes freaking forever!
I have short hair like yours and found that the spots I always miss or don't coat as heavily are the middle parts, so they end up a little darker. make sure you focus on those too.
and yes, your roots lighten much much faster, so I'd do those last after you have the rest of your hair the color you want. I found if I had orange parts, if I put the bleach on roots when the previous orange parts were a dark yellow, those spots & the roots lightened to the same color at the same time. so that gives you an idea of how much faster the roots lighten.
are you using 20 vol bleach? it takes longer, but does much less damage. It took me about 56 min to bleach my med brown hair to a pale yellow (and a little more than half that for my roots) Get some plastic clips & actually clip up sections so you work with only one section at a time. It really does help. You'd be surprised at how much hair you have to cover once you get in there
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