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Low lightning

Printed From: HairBoutique.com
Category: Hair Talk
Forum Name: Hair Color
Forum Description: The tricks and tribulations of changing your hair color
URL: https://talk.hairboutique.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=28810
Printed Date: December 27 2025 at 2:42am


Topic: Low lightning
Posted By: mpetrchilli
Subject: Low lightning
Date Posted: March 18 2005 at 5:03pm
I am the Basic instructor at a Beauty School. The Clinic instructor and I had a debate about the volume of peroxide for low lighting previously lightened hair. I do not teach the color chapter, I was just downstairs to monitor work being done on one of my basic students. Her hair was highlited the month before and it had not been lightened to the right level and too much lightning was put in. So she wanted to break it up with low lights, & there was no need to prime her hair being it had not been lightened to the right level to begin with. I suggested 10 Volume and only leaving color on until reaching desired color. The clinic  teacher said "20 Volume and leave the color on at least a half hour" I tried to reason with her, she was unbendable.I returned to my classroom upstairs and began looking in our textbook for the answer to show her. When I looked in the Color Chapter of Milady, there was nothing in there. I want something in writing to prove my point. It is very upsetting to me to have an instructor on the Clinic floor that is giving the students bad information.  Can someome help. P.S.This instructor just gave her notice. I think she realized she does not have what it takes to teach. She is going to work at a bank. 

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35 year career, now teaching



Replies:
Posted By: Veronica F
Date Posted: March 19 2005 at 1:57am

I'm no expert, and u'd probably be better off asking this at behindthechair.com but in this case, I'd say ur most likely right becuz if ur just depositing color and its on light hair and it only needs to be 10 vol.

20 volume is only really ideal for gray coverage, tho probably don't need to tell u this since ur an instructor! lol!



Posted By: leia1979
Date Posted: March 19 2005 at 8:00pm
I vote for 10 vol because the hair is already processed, and you're not trying to lift any pigment.  Why cause more damage than you need to?


Posted By: metalgirl
Date Posted: March 23 2005 at 11:52pm

You should use a demi permanent color to do lowlights on previously lightened hair.  Demi permanent colors don't contain ammonia and use a very low volume of peroxide (5-7 volume).  For lowlights, I love to use Matrix Color Sync.

Also, remember if you are going 2 or more  levels darker you will need to fill the hair with the missing undertone.  For this, you could either add warmth to your formula or use a filler like the Schwartzkopf filler sprays.

By using your tint that contains ammonia and the higher peroxide volumes you are actually causing the hair to be more porous and therefore more damaged.  Why use ammonia and higher peroxide when you don't need it?  You only would need it if you were intending to lift the color.

On porous hair, I would definately do strand checks to see when your low lights have reached your desired color.

I think it's kind of scarry that you 2 are cosmetology instructors and you don't even understand the basics of color chemistry!



Posted By: mpetrchilli
Date Posted: March 24 2005 at 7:03am
Yes it is scary! I have been very upset at lack of knowledge that the other instructors have when it comes to color. I consider myself a very good instructor, especially in color, but I do not teach the color chapter.When this other instructor disagreed with me in front of students, I was very upset. That is why I asked this question, I could not find anything in our Milady book to prove my point. I just found out yesterday that this instructor is going to a bank to work. And it is a good idea, because she is giving the students bad information.  

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35 year career, now teaching


Posted By: Sophie
Date Posted: March 24 2005 at 8:31pm

I'm with metalgirl all the way. 

You were more right than the other instructor mpet.  Good for you for questioning.   Metalgirl is right on though.  Personally I like redken shades for low lights.  Can your school get a couple of color manufacturers to come in to the school and teach basic color theroy??  Many times they will do it for free.

I surely didn't learn color theory in Beauty School.



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Sophie
http://salonwest.proboards34.com - http://salonwest.proboards34.com


Posted By: leia1979
Date Posted: March 24 2005 at 8:45pm
Metalgirl, you made me feel better....I was wondering why a demi wasn't one of the possible choices.  That's usually my advice to people wanting to go darker, but I figured a cosmetology instructor would know more than me and my informal education.


Posted By: mpetrchilli
Date Posted: March 24 2005 at 11:36pm
I work for a company that uses a color called Rebo, it is probably not very good. We have limited resources. They sell their own line of products and will not allow any other products in the school, including other colors. I think it is possible to teach color without the proper products, though not as easy. As far as teaching low lighting, I think it is a form of corrective coloring, I do not consider that basic. I try to teach as much basic color and advanced color as I can get away to my freshman students. I have not approved of the way many schools want us to teach, but then I don't have any control over that as an instructor. I came out of school with hardly any knowledge of color, and I tell my students that this is true of many new stylists.I want them to know more than the average new stylists.  I teach because I like it, definately not for the money they pay us.   

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35 year career, now teaching



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