Hey Vaibhav,
Okay, no more dark areas for you in regards to the chemical ingredients and their effects.
The chemical ingredient in L'Oreal X-TENSO and X-TENSO CERA THERMIC is ammonium thioglycolate - sometimes referred to as thioglycolic acid.
The chemistry of the hair straightening process is identical with that of permanent waving, with the breaking of disulfide linkages and re-forming of the hair shape (in a straighter arrangement this time, rather than in curls), followed by re-making of the linkages.
What are the effects of hair straightening?
The reducing agent in TR products is called ammonium thioglycolate in an alkaline solution. The thioglycolate reducing agent acts on the keratin in the hair by breaking the disulfide linkages that join the pairs of cysteine units together. The result is that the keratin softens and swells. The softened hair is then put into its new shape. As it is manipulated the cysteine linkages slip past each other and realign themselves with new cysteine partners.
Neutralizing lotion is then applied. This contains oxidizing agents. One that is often used is hydrogen peroxide, the same substance that is used in hair bleaches. Oxidizing agents work in the opposite way to reducing agents. They make the cysteine units link together into pairs again, hardening the hair and giving it its new, permanent straight shape.
The destruction of disulfide bonds leads to the production of a new molecule called cysteic acid. Unlike disulfide bonds, cysteic acid is not a cross-linked bond between protein chains of the cortex, so it weakens the overall structure of the hair. Although this is an inevitable side effect, the end result is hair that is easy to manage. An appropriate protein/moisture balance can be achieved through the proper hair care treatment.
I don't know what is available in India and I don’t know much about Keune either, so I cannot say which one is better. I know Keune makes a permanent wave lotion, but as I had previously mentioned to you, I doubt if they have a hair straightening product. I can tell you that X-Tenso is a great hair straightening product. It also has a great consistency which gives the stylist the ability to apply the product exactly where he wants it.
Keep in mind that the end result of any hair straightening service depends a lot more on the knowledge, experience and skill of the stylist doing the process and no necessarily the product.
You can learn more by visiting my Website at http://www.verticalsinhair.com/ - http://www.verticalsinhair.com
Steve
------------- Steve Tcherkezian
Brazilian & Japanese Hair Straightening - REAL Specialist
e-mail: steve@VerticalsInHair.com
Website: www.VerticalsInHair.com
Toronto Canada
Steve Direct: 416 669 9118
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