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Dark hair and ashy tones--help

Printed From: HairBoutique.com
Category: Hair Talk
Forum Name: Hair Color
Forum Description: The tricks and tribulations of changing your hair color
URL: https://talk.hairboutique.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=44194
Printed Date: October 05 2025 at 1:39pm


Topic: Dark hair and ashy tones--help
Posted By: phix95
Subject: Dark hair and ashy tones--help
Date Posted: June 14 2006 at 10:17pm
Hi.

Well my problem is that whenever I get my hair hilighted, unless it's very light blonde, the hilights always turn out red-ish.  I believe I have a medium olive/yellow complexion.  And I've read that if you have that kind of complexion (olive = warm) that you should get warm hilights.  BUT, anything red in my hair looks TERRIBLE!  Even clothing wise, I look good in COOL colors, not warm.

The last few times I had it hilighted, I wanted blonde and light brown hilights.  The girl did the blonde ones fine but the brown ones always looked coppery.  The problem was she was trying to lift to light brown.  But that doesnt work on me.  It will always turn out redish.  And I already knew that and told her but she kept trying to tone it down.  Finally, she lightened it to blonde and put a (supposedly) ash brown on it and it turned out better, but still coppery.

So what do I do?  I want to get some light brown hilights again (and I'm going to someone else).  What can they do so I don't get red?  I would think ash or neutral would work but last time the "ash" turned out still coppery.  And whoever I go to in the past says "oh, caramel hilights would look great on you" but thats got RED in it!

Anyone else been in this situation?  And really ashy blonde seems to wash out my face.

Oh yeah, also anyone know a good colorist in The Chicago suburbs who KNOWS what the hell they're doing?  I'm planning to go to Zano's salon b/c I have a coupon.  Thanks




Replies:
Posted By: meli
Date Posted: June 15 2006 at 3:15am
If you  have very dark hair then when you bleach it it will go through stages: redish->orange->yellow->white (lack of pigment).  There are stages in between, but these are the basic colors.  To counter the red, she should have added a color with a green base (which can be ash brown), but sometimes ash colors have a blue base,  which (if added) would only emphasize the red.  If you wanted a lighter brown, then have your hair bleached to the orange stage and then colored with a brown that has a blue base.  Basically you look at the color wheel and add the color opposite of the color you want to get rid of to create a neutral effect.
  The girl you went to probably didn't have the best understanding of color or the products she was using.  It's not necessarily where you go (what salon), but who you go to and their understanding and experience.


Posted By: phix95
Date Posted: June 16 2006 at 1:32am
Hey thanks.
I understand about the color wheel and the stages.  But why would a blue base bring out the copper?
And then you're saying to go to the orange stage and then put on a light brown color...now is that a toner or a permanant color?  If it isnt permanant, when it washes out, I will have orange hair!


Posted By: arcanjo
Date Posted: June 18 2006 at 7:55pm
I feel your pain.  Right now, I'm dealing with orange hair. 
 
Since you want brown highlights, you'd have to get your hair to an orangey state, then, you'd have to tone the highlights with a blue based ash color (since blue cancels out orange).  If the brown color you want is on the darker side, then you'd probably only have to lighten your hair to a reddish state, then you'd need to use a green based ash color (because green cancels out red).  Try using a blue based shampoo as well, once a week or so, so that you don't get the brassiness. 
 
I myself have given up on making my hair lighter.  Since I chemically straighten it, I rather not bleach it because it will really damage it.  My only option is to use a 20 volume oxidizer.  My last try (which was a couple of days ago, at a salon) was the Redken Color Fusion in 5AG (ash green), my natural haircolor is a number 4, so I was only going one shade lighter.  Needless to say, my hair is now orangey, it simply doesn't work.  I've come to terms with my hair, I've realized I'll never get an ash based brown, period.  Unless of course I was to bleach my entire head pale blonde and then tone it.
 
I don't understand why they say olive skin tones match with warm colors, that's a bunch of B.S.  At least not for my hair, warm colored clothes do look better on me, but when it comes to hair, it looks like crap.  Go figure.  I'd like to know who's the colorblind stylist that came up with that. 
 
Good luck with your hair, I really hope you get the color you want, I'll even pray that you do.  Let us know how it turns out.


Posted By: phix95
Date Posted: June 20 2006 at 1:08am
Wow. thanks.
Thing is....I think my other stylist did go just to the orangy stage, then toned it with something w/purple I think...and didnt work.  Now, is toner a permanant color?  What if she had put a permanant med. brown over the orange...would that work?
And, why not just dye all the parts I wanted all the way to light blonde, then put on a permanant med. brown?  I think just using "toner" washes out.



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