Hi Blaq!!
Girl, no! Please do not get a relaxer so soon! One of my very
best friends, who hadn't seen me in about 6mths or so, was shocked at
how long and full my hair had gotten in such a short time. I
still have a long way to go to reach my goals, but I have made a lot of
progress because my hair was seriously busted!! She asked me to
email her some tips, so I cut and paste what I sent to her. Her
hair is shorter than yours, so she is starting at a good starting place
length-wise, and so are you: the following is long and here it goes:
A) Our (black) hair needs MOISTURE, MOISTURE, MOISTURE. It also needs protein (but not as much as moisture, because protein-overload will make it snap off). So, wash more often, to hydrate your scalp/hair.
Remember - Shampoo is for scalp and Conditioner is for hair (mainly ends)
Shampoo SCALP only. Only use a capful of shampoo and dilute it in a cup and pour the cup over your head. Shampoo contains harsh detergents that strip away natural oils from black hair. So remember not to over-shampoo your hair. Plus, if you increase the amount of washing, you'll need less harsh shampoo. I only use it every 4 or 6 washes, and the majority of my washes are conditioners only (also known as: co-washes). I love co-washes!!!!
Condition your hair and not scalp (because conditioners will clog your pores). Concentrate on last two to three inches of ends, in order to retain length.
Deep condition at least once a week.
B) Once you wash it, add 1) a leave-in conditioner, 2) a moisturizer, and 3) an oil to seal in the moisture. Concentrate on last two inches of ends.
C) Style it w/protective styles that will keep the ends hidden (protected) such as braids and buns.
D) On a daily basis (morning and night) - moisturize and add some oil (but do not saturate) and concentrate on last 2-3 inches of ends. Oil, not grease.
E) Do not handle your hair roughly. This step is very important. Use wide-tooth combs only because the small-tooth combs rip your hair right out of your head. Try to comb your hair only when it is wet. And only finger-comb your hair the rest of the week to style it. Eliminating too much combing will relieve your ends of all of the manipulation that causes breakage. I have managed to comb only when wet, which is when I wash twice a week.
F) When you do comb, start from the bottom first, as opposed to starting from your roots and pulling out tons of strands for no good reason. Be gentle. Treat your hair like fine silk and it will thank you. Also, comb your hair in sections, instead of combing all at once.
G) Throw away all of your rubber bands and any other type of hair contraptions that tug on and cause stress on your hair. Use soft scrunchies. __________________________________________________________________
Okay here are the tips to get you started, I got most of this from hair boards and from Carolyn Gray's book "The Black Women's Guide to Beautiful and Healthier Hair in 6 Weeks" (and added my own opinions):
1.) Make sure you wash your hair at least once a week. Deep condition at least once a week. Many successful hair growers can go beyond 7 days, but I rec at least once a week, if not more times a week for newbies. The effects of most conditioners last 7 days TOPS...(for some of us, it lasts only 3-4 days...so, I wash after the 3rd or 4th day).
2.) Using a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner for your regular wash days are a MUST! If you STILL find that shampoos are drying, you could always do CO-washes where you just use conditioners only..NO shampoo.
Here are some product recommedations:
Shampoos- Nexxus Therappe, Neutrogena Triple Moisture, Kenra, Eluence, etc.
Conditioners: Nexxus Humectress (my favorite), Neutrogena Triple Moisture daily con and hair mask, Kenra, Eluence, KeraCare Humecto, etc.
3.) Your hair also needs regular doses of protein to keep it strong and help repair it. Usually mild protein conditioners (they are usually creamy in consistency) can be used weekly or monthly depending on how much protein your hair likes. Stronger treatments (usually more liquidy) can be used safely on every 4-6 weeks. (APHOGEE IS THE BIG MAMA OF THE STRONG PROTEIN TREATMENTS).
I use a mild protein bi-weekly or as needed (IC Fantasia in the tube). I use the stronger one (Aphogee liquid) the week after my relaxer (which is usually every 12 weeks).
Mild Protein Recommendations: Nexxus Keraphix, Aubrey Organics GPB, Elasta QP makes one but the name escapes me at the time. I think the Nexxus and Aubrey are the two most popular.
Strong Protein Recommendations: Nexxus Emergencee, and Aphogee makes one also. Be sure to follow with a moisturizing conditioner, although I usually mix my mild protein and my moisturizing conditioners together! (This step makes your hair feel like silk).
4.) Sleep in silk or satin, whether it be a scarf, bonnet, or pillowcase. Cotton robs your hair of moisture and it hooks on your ends and makes it snap off!
5.) Oil, not grease. Learn the benefits of natural oils. The JOYS of EVOO (extra virgin olive oil)! Ditch the commercial hot oil treatments and head straight to the source. Extra Virgin Olive Oil straight from the grocery store makes a WONDERFUL hot oil treatment! You can also add it to any of your conditioners to boost the effects. I've noticed increased shine and elasticity since using EVOO! As you get more into hair care if that's what you decide to do, you can find other oils that are beneficial to add to your hot oil treatment, COCONUT (oil and milk), JOJOBA (my favorite), CASTOR, ROSEMARY, etc! Some girls also like to add Honey to their pretreaments!
6.) Invest in a widetooth comb! I use the jilbere d'paris shower comb (available at Sally's for less than 2.00. It puts less stress on the individual strands)!
7.) Avoid the blowdryer, and DIRECT HEAT, airdrying is an excellent way to help you maintain length! If you must, use it only on cool and only on your roots and not your ends. I airdry 95% of the time, except for random salon visits. It's one of those things you have to work at, but once you get it, it's worth it's weight in gold!
8.) Try to stretch your relaxers as long as you can without breakage! I know it's hard when the hair is short, but the tips in Carolyn Grey's book kept my short hair in tact. Once you start to see excessive breakage, then the stretching becomes counterproductive and you'll know that it is time to relax. Also, when you relax, make sure ONLY the new growth is getting relaxed as much as humanly possible (everyone makes mistakes!) A good way to get started at stretching is to stretch one or two weeks longer, with each relaxer. And before you know it, you are stretching with ease.
9.) A good leave-in conditioner is very important! Try to find one that protects your hair from uva and uvb rays. My favorite ones right now are Infusium 23 and Neutragena Triple Moisture Leave-Ins.
10.) Moisturizers..for people that are starting out, I usually rec that they find one whose first ingredient is water, with no petroleum, mineral oil, or lanolin (These three are the ingredients that you need to keep away from your scalp becuase they clog your pores, and coat the hair shaft, so get used to reading labels). VERY IMPORTANT.
After you start searching through moisturizers, you can find what does and doesn't work for your hair..for instance, maybe your hair will like OIL based moisturiziers..but those are the basic guidlines that I'd say start with, here are some product recs: Elasta QP Mango Butter, Profective Breakfree.
My two favorites are Neutragena Triple Moisture (oil-based) and S-Curl (water-based). It took me a long time to learn this about my hair.
11.) Oils: some good oils for the hair and scalp are EVOO, coconut, Wild Growth Oil (my favorite right now, even though it smells kind of funky), and Jojoba oil. One of the most popular moisturizing Combinations for a while was Mango butter with Wild Growth Oil.
12.) Protective Styling: These are low manipulation, preferably with the ends tucked away some where. These are styles that you don't have to manipulate your hair too much to do; therefore less breakage. And the idea behind keeping the ends tucked away is that they will split less and therefore need to be trimmed less, so you retain more length! (THIS IS A MAJOR STEP IN MY LENGTH, THUS FAR).
All in all, you have to decide what works for you! But if you work some of these tips into your hair care routine, hopefully you will develop your own regimen and grow healthy, long hair. For me, I started off wanting only healthy hair, but now after washing frequently, airdrying, and protective styling, the hair is now thicker and longer (more than I bargained for). Now I have set higher hair goals for myself.
I still have a long way to go, so maybe we can be hair buddies.
Good Luck!
------------- journal: www.fotki.com/ladyesquire
email: ladyesquirehair@yahoo
|