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Reply to message: viewthread.asp?forum=AMB%5FAP804060353&id=2467&page=1#21.2467.1 - 21.2467.1 I know my reply is too late and I hope your body wave turned out just as you wanted. I have had a lot of experience with perms/body waves and offer the following advice: A. ANALYSIS OF HAIR - The stylist should first determine the condition of your hair to determine whether an Alkaline or Acid Wave should be used. ALKALINE WAVE: The best choice for resistant hair, resistant grey hair, Asian hair, hair with low elasticity, and hard to perm fine hair as well as normal, healthy hair. ACID WAVE: Milder than alkaline perms and work at a lower pH to reduce swelling of the hair during the perm process thus-reducing the chance of damage to fragile and color treated hair. A good choice for healthy hair with good elasticity, tinted hair, damaged hair, highlighted hair, or fragile hair. B. HAIR PREPARATION: Shampoo with a purifying shampoo to remove any build-up that may exist. Repeat if build-up is still present. Re-check hair`s condition and do a test curl. C. ROD SELECTION For a natural wave pattern, a straight or cylindrical type rod often works best. A straight or cylindrical rod can be wrapped with the hair strands the same width from the scalp to the ends. This prevents bunching of the hair which distorts the wave pattern. D. OFF-BASE ROD PLACEMENT Off-base rod placement is generally the most effective way to perm. Hair wrapped on-base often ends-up with rod marks, breakage and odd wave patterns. To off-base wrap, a section is combed and held at a 45 degree angle off the head. When wound, it will tend to sit in front of its own base (The trick is to make sure no portion of the rod is sitting on its own base). The pressure from the rods above will insure that hair is curled very close to the scalp. It also guarantees that consistent wave patterns are formed and no rod marks are created. E. THE PROPER USE OF END PAPERS I prefer sandwiching the hair between two end papers. This technique allows the hair to be held at the same width from scalp to ends. Sometimes end papers are inserted as the hair is wrapped to the scalp. This is called cushion wrapping. Cushion wrapping is a great method to protect fragile hair. It keeps hair from crossing into itself as it is wrapped. It allows hair to swell and enables the solution to penetrate quickly to the ends of the hair. F. PROCESSING The chemical action of the perm should be applied thorougly and evenly on each curl and checked frequently to prevent overprocessing. G. STOPPING THE PROCESS All that is needed to stop the chemical action is to rinse the rods with water. With an acid wave it is very important to rinse well as the solution is not compatible with the neutralizer. If the neutralizer is applied on top of the lotion the rods will become hot. H. NEUTRALIZING (Oxidizing) Neutralizing solution contains an the oxidizing agent. The oxidizing agent releases oxygen in the hair. This starts a new chemical action that reforms the hair into the shape of the rod. I. OXIDATION PROCESS - ATMOSPHERIC OXIDATION: Allowing the oxygen in the atmosphere to neutralize the perm reforms the hair more slowly. To be effective, hair must dry naturally and slowly on the rods for 24 hours. (Not under the dryer or out in the sun). L. LOCKING-IN RESULTS Once the Neutralizer (oxidizer) is rinsed from the hair, a chemical balancer may be applied. This may be done on or off the rods. The balancer will close the cuticle layer to lock-in the perm and help eliminate perm odors. Leave on hair for 3-5 minutes and rinse. A Leave-In Protector will detangle, condition and protect hair from heat-styling, sun exposure and other environmental damage. Some products recommend waiting at least 24 hours before shampooing to further lock-in the curl.
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Merlin
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