question for William!!

> William, I've been reading all of your responses to> haircolor and have read your hair coloring tips.I> don't understand your formulations. If a level 6A> desires 8W why wouldn't you use 8W with 20 vol.> Wouldn't a level 10 bring somebody up lghter than> their desired level (8). Also, my salon will be> switching over to Redken in the very near future. I> hear a lot about Shades EQ but what are their> permanent colors like? Thanks for your adviceTo Julie;My color advice is based upon Redken Amino Color gels formula. The 'formula' is- desired level x 2 -(minus) the natural or level it is now = the 'level' of color to use. If the number is higher than 12 you must pre-lighten and then tone to achieve the desired color. The newer 'color fusion' process is a multi color process, with the same shade or 1 tonal family different color used, and formulated by the stylist for zone 1,2 or 3 as needed to compensate for tonal corrections as needed. With the 'fusion' colors natural color level + Target level, divided by 2 = final results. Example natural level 5 + level 7 'color' used = 5 + 7 = 12 divided by 2 =level 6 results with 20 vol developer. I have used both color gels and color fusion with much success. Probably I would lean toward the fusion process for most applications. william

> William, I've been reading all of your responses to> haircolor and have read your hair coloring tips.I> don't understand your formulations. If a level 6A> desires 8W why wouldn't you use 8W with 20 vol.> Wouldn't a level 10 bring somebody up lghter than> their desired level (8). Also, my salon will be> switching over to Redken in the very near future. I> hear a lot about Shades EQ but what are their> permanent colors like? Thanks for your adviceTo Julie;My color advice is based upon Redken Amino Color gels formula. The 'formula' is- desired level x 2 -(minus) the natural or level it is now = the 'level' of color to use. If the number is higher than 12 you must pre-lighten and then tone to achieve the desired color. The newer 'color fusion' process is a multi color process, with the same shade or 1 tonal family different color used, and formulated by the stylist for zone 1,2 or 3 as needed to compensate for tonal corrections as needed. With the 'fusion' colors natural color level + Target level, divided by 2 = final results. Example natural level 5 + level 7 'color' used = 5 + 7 = 12 divided by 2 =level 6 results with 20 vol developer. I have used both color gels and color fusion with much success. Probably I would lean toward the fusion process for most applications. william