Delin: Thanks, you're sweet. Can you believe this stuff is $13 a bag?
Mer: What do you mean, brassy problem? (I mean, I have an idea of what
you mean, but....) Yeah, I'd try all those--the Manic Panic Virgin
Snow, the ARTec, the Shimmer Lights. They really can help.
Unfortunately, I think peroxide lightening sometimes just yields a
brassier result than bleach; it's almost as if the effects of the
peroxide aren't strong enough to last as long. What do you use:
peroxide or bleach? And what's your natural color? If you use the
former (like a boxed peroxide), you may have more luck using an ash or
cool version. But again, I'm really having better luck with this Feria
stuff--I'm sure it's damaging, but I don't think it's any more
damaging, at least for me, than what I used to use. You may also want
to ask Kristin or Sherrie--they're both in the superlight, 613 range. :)
The lightener that you are calling 'peroxide' is actually a 'high lift tint'. It's a regular tint in an actual shade (ultra light blond, etc) with a lot of ammonia in it and then you usually add double parts peroxide (usually double 40 volume) . It's the combination of ammonia and peroxide alone that lightens the hair. Although color companies tell you that you can get 4 levels of lift with a tint, in actuality, you can usually only get 2.5 to maybe 3 levels if you are lucky. So depending on you natural base level, you may end up with brassy results because the high lift tint will only lift the 2-3 levels which may not be light enough for the desired result.
When I do opt to use a high lift tint, I almost always use an ash based tint because when you lift the hair's pigment, you expose the underlying residual color, and that's always a very warm color (think orange , ugly gold, or chicken yellow) and you want that ash color to neutralize the warmth you will encounter.
Bleach is a wonderful tool and mostly any bleach damage comes from poor application (overlapping) or leaving it on too long (or not long enough if your results are brassy). Bleach also has a lot of ammonia in it, and you also do mix it with peroxide (10-40 volume). Bleach mixed with a lower level of peroxide is not less damaging, in fact some colorists believe it is more damaging because you need to leave it on the hair longer to get the lift you want. The higher volumes work faster. Bleach can usually lift up to 7 levels, so if your natural color is a 6 or darker, bleach is what you need to give you the level of lightness you want.
Also, hair that is course, takes longer to lighten because it has more layers of cuticle and sometimes a thicker cortex (the inside layer of the hair under the cuticles)
well, I know this thread isn't about color, but hopefully if you understand the differences between the products, you can better choose the appropriate product for your hair type to get your desired result, and therefore not end up brassy.
Edited by metalgirl
Bridget
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On the high lift subject... I use Maji Meche. It's ammonia free, so it's gentler on your hair. It smells like roses too.. yum. Have you ever tried this Metalgirl?
Interesting. Thanks for the info, Metalgirl. I figured the
fineness/coarseness (or at least the thinness/thickness) had something
to do with the way it responds to these chemicals, although I've never
actually read it anywhere till now.
:)
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The more places I hear that its okay that coarser hair requires more
time to lift, and darker hair requires more time to lift, and the
longer you leave the bleach on the larger the possibility of damage,
the better I feel about my hair just not being a DIY blond candidate.
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